English Cider

More than 50% of all apples grown in Britain are washed, squashed and fermented into cider. But what makes English cider so interesting is its long, unbroken history of cider apple orchards and the sheer number of varieties grown. Whilst there is evidence that the Celts made cider from crab apples, we have the Norman invasion of 1066 to thank for the introduction of the sharp, tannic apples that make such scrumptious alcoholic drinks. There are over 2,500 different varieties that are classified four ways in the Long Ashton system; bittersweet, bittersharp, sweet, sharp. These categories give an indication of the levels of tannin and acid. Bittersharp apples, for example, have high acid and high tannin, whilst bittersweet have low acid and high tannin. Most ciders are a blend of apple styles, but ‘vintage quality’ apples can make high quality cider on their own, such as Kingston Black, Foxwhelp or Golden Hornet.

Plenty of rain and rich, fertile soil are needed to grow apples, cold winter months are essential as the trees must be fully dormant over winter. Most varieties are late flowering, so spring frosts are rarely a problem for blossom and fruit set. Strong westerly gales are managed by planting wind breaks, often large orchards are surrounded by tall poplar, alder or birch trees. Two regions are famed for cider; the West Country and Kent.

The West Country, England

The acidic and often iron-rich soils of Somerset, Worcestershire and Herefordshire are perfect for cider apple trees. There is no one style of cider produced across these counties, ciders are many and varied. Probably the most famous style is Scrumpy which was traditionally made from unselected apples or windfalls and tends to be flat, unfiltered, rougher, and more alcoholic (6-8%vol) than other ciders. To ‘scrump’ is to steal fruit from an orchard…so perhaps it is not surprising that these ciders were originally rough and ready. ‘Keeved’ ciders are naturally sweet. The apple pulp is left to settle in barrels for up to 24 hours which allows a degree of oxidation, but it also results in some of the nutrients leaching out, meaning the cider will ferment more slowly and can be bottled with residual sweetness to create a naturally mild cider.

Kent, ‘The Garden of England’

There is a manuscript plan of Christ Church Monastery at Canterbury which dates from about 1165. It shows a walled garden which consisted of apples and pears for eating, cooking and fermenting. Historically Kent has always grown fruit, flowers and vegetables to grace London tables. It was during the reign of King Henry VIII that a model orchard was set up at Teynham which grafted, grew and distributed trees around the county. This mixture of eating and cooking apples is reflected in the style of the ciders; there are no cider apples grown in the Southeast so Kent ciders are less tannic and more juicy and fruity than their west country cousins.

English Cider

What makes English cider so interesting is its long, unbroken history of cider apple orchards and the sheer number of varieties grown. Whilst there is evidence that the Celts made cider from crab apples, we have the Norman invasion of 1066 to thank for the introduction of the sharp, tannic apples that make such scrumptious alcoholic drinks. There are over 2,500 different varieties that are classified four ways in the Long Ashton system; bittersweet, bittersharp, sweet, sharp. These categories give an indication of the levels of tannin and acid. Bittersharp apples, for example, have high acid and high tannin, whilst bittersweet have low acid and high tannin. Most ciders are a blend of apple styles, but ‘vintage quality’ apples can make high quality cider on their own, such as Kingston Black, Foxwhelp or Golden Hornet.

Plenty of rain and rich, fertile soil are needed to grow apples, cold winter months are essential as the trees must be fully dormant over winter. Most varieties are late flowering, so spring frosts are rarely a problem for blossom and fruit set. Strong westerly gales are managed by planting wind breaks, often large orchards are surrounded by tall poplar, alder or birch trees. Two regions are famed for cider; the West Country and Kent.

• The West Country, England

The acidic and often iron-rich soils of Somerset, Worcestershire and Herefordshire are perfect for cider apple trees. There is no one style of cider produced across these counties, ciders are many and varied. Probably the most famous style is Scrumpy which was traditionally made from unselected apples or windfalls and tends to be flat, unfiltered, rougher, and more alcoholic (6-8%vol) than other ciders. To ‘scrump’ is to steal fruit from an orchard…so perhaps it is not surprising that these ciders were originally rough and ready. ‘Keeved’ ciders are naturally sweet. The apple pulp is left to settle in barrels for up to 24 hours which allows a degree of oxidation, but it also results in some of the nutrients leaching out, meaning the cider will ferment more slowly and can be bottled with residual sweetness to create a naturally mild cider.

• Kent, ‘The Garden of England’

There is a manuscript plan of Christ Church Monastery at Canterbury which dates from about 1165. It shows a walled garden which consisted of apples and pears for eating, cooking and fermenting. Historically Kent has always grown fruit, flowers and vegetables to grace London tables. It was during the reign of King Henry VIII that a model orchard was set up at Teynham which grafted, grew and distributed trees around the county. This mixture of eating and cooking apples is reflected in the style of the ciders; there are no cider apples grown in the Southeast so Kent ciders are less tannic and more juicy and fruity than their west country cousins.

Asturias, Spain

Apples also thrive in the cooler northern regions of Spain and have done for more than three thousand years. Originally referred to as Zythos modern Spaniards now call their fermented apple drink Sidra. Asturias is without doubt Spain’s largest cider producing region with more than 80% of production based here. Search out Sidra Natural made from 100% freshly pressed apples and naturally fermented; sharp, strongly flavoured and with good acidity, these ciders pair brilliantly with the local tapas. In this region cider bars are called Chigre rather than Sidreria as elsewhere in Spain. And for those interested in Spanish history and fermenting apples, there is a cider museum at Nava.

Basque Country, Spain

The tradition in the Basque Country is to drink sidra straight from the chestnut barrels; often it is poured from above head height into the glass, this aerates the cider as well as making an excellent spectacle. Beware sidra gasificada either from here or Asturias. This is a mass produced, slightly sweet cider made in large stainless steel tanks. There’s nothing wrong with it as a gluggable aperitif, but don’t expect the same length or depth of flavour as the drier, artisanal sidra natural.

Northern France

In France, cider is known as cidre. The country may be famed for its vineyards and wines, but its tradition for making apple wine is just as old, dating back to Celtic times.

Normandy, France

Half of all French apples are grown in Normandy and, just like across the English Channel, it is the cold winters that make this such a great région for apples. Normandy cider must be made from 100% freshly pressed apple juice and like English cider it is nearly always a blend from different cider apples. Thirst quenching, these ciders tend to be slightly sweet with a bitter, edgy taste and around 3-5% alcohol. For adventurous Francophiles there is a 25 mile cider route which takes in two dozen or so cider farms. Look for the sign Cru de Cambremer to visit the officially listed farms or take a chance on one of the many of other farms as you drive, cycle or walk by.

Brittany, France

Like the West Country, Breton ciders come in a range of styles from clear to cloudy, from straw yellow to brown, dry, semi-dry and sweet but in general they are characterised by rich, full-bodied rustic flavours with fruity floral notes. Additional maturation adds spiciness. The alcohol is never less than 5%. Cidre bouché, or cider with a cork, is fermented in bottles which are closed with a mushroom cork and wire. It must be made without concentrate or water and should be golden in colour, fizzy and bursting with the tastes and aromas of late summer in the orchard. Cornouaille Cider is Brittany’s only cider with a protected designation of origin (PDO); it is a semi-dry cider with very fine bubbles and a slight hint of bitterness.