Txakoli vineyards in Spain's Basque country

Txakoli vineyards in Spain's Basque country
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Five Spanish grape varieties you need to discover

There’s so much more to Spain than its Tempranillo flagship. More producers are now championing native varieties as part of a quest for original, distinctive wines. Here are five local grapes worth meeting.

1. Xarel-lo

The hero of Cava. This Catalan grape is often found flanked by fellow locals Macabeo and Parellada in Spain’s famous fizz. Full of personality, Xarel-lo can sometimes prove too much on its own, thanks to that firm backbone and herbal character. Yet when carefully handled, it invariably plays a starring role in the most ambitious, age-worthy Cavas.

Among the producers seeking to show a different side to Cava’s cheap, supermarket image are stars such as Gramona. Along with a clutch of other producers, Gramona has embraced the name Corpinnat to distinguish its superior Penedès sparkling wines, renowned for their long maturation and even longer cellaring potential. At this address Xarel-lo lends vital Catalan character and longevity.

The variety also stars in the lesser known, smaller region of Alella, which lies on the opposite, north-eastern side of Barcelona. Here Xarel-lo often goes by the local name of Pansa Blanca and, in the hands of top local producers such as Alta Allela, shows flair not just in sparkling styles but still and sweet too.

2. Hondarribi Zuri

Impress friends by wrapping your tongue around this Basque grape variety, responsible for a wine that goes by the similarly daunting name of Txakoli. If you find yourself in one of the many fabulous seafood restaurants of San Sebastian or the nearby fishing port of Getaria, then follow the locals and order a bottle.

The lush, green Atlantic coast of northern Spain’s Basque country often feels more like apple country than a climate suitable for ripening grapes. There’s certainly a zesty bite, even a slight trademark spritz to Txakoli, but the best examples are vibrant rather than tart, with a citrus, fresh herb and stony character that is a perfect foil for this region’s gloriously fresh fish.

Txakoli’s image, already challenged by pronunciation hurdles, suffered from a proliferation of lean, dilute examples during the late 20th century. But many producers now take pride in their Hondarribi Zuri, layering extra flavour and texture on ripe fruit with extended maturation on lees. Look out for top names such as Txomin Etxaniz and Doniene Gorrondona.

3. Mencía

If you want to get the sommelier onside then try asking about Mencía. This red grape has deep roots in north-western Spain, shining in particular on the steep slate hillsides that shape the inland Galician regions of Bierzo, Ribeira Sacra and Valdeorras.

Forget the stereotypical image of Spanish reds as big, ripe and oaky. Mencía may not be genetically related to Cabernet Franc, but it certainly shares this variety’s fresh, fragrant fruit with cool graphite undertow. Serve it cool for an invigorating summer red or as a refreshing counterbalance to that hearty winter stew.

The reputation of Mencía received a helpful boost from visionary Spanish winemaker Alvaro Palacios, who joined forces with his nephew Ricardo Perez to make wine in Bierzo under the Descendientes de J Palacios label. Meanwhile Rioja-based firm CVNE has extended its focus to Valdeorras, producing expressive, superb value Mencía, often from centenarian vines.

4. Graciano

Tempranillo rightly steals the show in Rioja, with Garnacha tending to claim any remaining limelight, but don’t overlook the vital support act played by Graciano. Known jokingly as “Gracias no” by some winemakers for its difficult personality, Graciano is occasionally allowed to take centre stage, often to thrilling effect.

Those winemakers who can cope with this mildew-prone, low yielding, high acid red grape are rewarded with a beguilingly perfumed, intensely flavoured and majestically structured wine. Even a small proportion of Graciano lends backbone to serious Rioja gran reservas, but look out also for the growing number of single varietal expressions.

Rioja and neighbouring Navarra are the main Graciano heartlands. In the former, top producer Contino offers a cuvée that lets Graciano fly solo in style; meanwhile in the latter, Viña Zorzal is recognised as a particularly successful ambassador for a variety whose fortunes appear deservedly to be on the rise.

5. Listán Blanco

Northern Spain certainly doesn’t have a monopoly on exciting but underrated grape varieties. It would be easy to dismiss Listán Blanco, or Palomino Fino as it’s also known, as a rather neutral, flat tasting grape best suited to brandy production, but that image is transformed when you taste the characterful wines of Tenerife and Jerez.

In Jerez, it is the oxidative, yeast influenced, long maturation period that transforms this variety into the fino, amontillado and palo cortado sherry styles that are so distinctive and food friendly. In Tenerife, the combination of marine influence, volcanic soil and often positively ancient vines creates wines of explosive freshness, mouthwatering salinity and a flavour spectrum that keeps you returning to the glass.

Names such as González Byass and Hidalgo offer reliable benchmarks across the Sherry spectrum. If you seek unfortified refreshment, then Tenerife wines are harder to track down, but well worth the effort. Suertes del Marqués is a recognised star, whose results alone should put Listán Blanco firmly on the radar of anyone interested in the world’s most serious, original white wines.

Gabriel Stone
Gabriel Stone
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