Oktoberfest: 3 fine dining spots to take a break in Munich
A dish at Mural restaurant.
© Lenka Li Lilling
Noone tends to leave Munich's Oktoberfest, the 187th edition of which runs from 17 September to 3 October, hungry. When the last Oktoberfest was held in 2019, 124 oxen, 29 calves and about half a million chickens alone were eaten by the 6.3 million visitors, and even vegans can now enjoy Bavarian delicacies.
However, the food served in the festival tents is most definitely Bavarian and somewhat rustic. Add to this the hustle and bustle of the crowds, which are difficult to escape on the official grounds of the Theresienwiese. If you're in the mood for exquisite cuisine after or alongside your visit to the Wiesn, you'll find it in these three restaurants.
Tohru in der Schreiberei
Few openings caused more of a stir in Munich this year. Just a few weeks after opening its doors, German-Japanese Tohru Nakamura cooked up two Michelin stars, which he had already held during his previous job at Werneckhof in Schwabing. On the first floor of the listed and lavishly restored old city clerk's office, Nakamura brings superb cuisine to diners' plates with great effort and meticulousness.
While modern French haute cuisine forms the backbone of Nakamura's cooking, Japanese influences are particularly noticeable in his choice of products – Japanese Wagyu beef meets French raw milk butter. The menu at Schreiberei is like a symphony in terms of attention to detail, level, scope and ambition. If you want to use your visit to Munich to find out what is state of the art in Germany's kitchens right now, you should stop in here. Its sister restaurant on the ground floor is a little more casual and you can order à la carte dishes at lunchtime.
Tohru in der Schreiberei
Courgette flowers from Upper Bavaria, chicken from Lech, caviar from Austria: Mural restaurant has dedicated itself entirely to regional products. But without producing folklore cuisine from it. Instead, chef Joshua Leise and host Wolfgang Hingerl stand for precise modernist cuisine that focuses on delicate flavours and sophisticated taste profiles.
This can be a simple ausgezogene, a deep-fried Bavarian pastry, with royal caviar gnocchi and sour cream, or gently cooked trout with golden beets and smoked buttermilk. In addition to the restaurant, Bar Mural in Maxvorstadt, which focuses on natural wines, Bambule hotel bar in the Westend and Mural Farmhouse in the south of Munich are also part of the group.
Siggi Schelling at Werneckhof
Sigi Schelling took over Werneckhof from Tohru Nakamura, but cooks there in a much more classical way and is deeply rooted in French haute cuisine. Before that, she worked for years alongside Hans Haas at Munich's Tantris. "I remain true to the style of cuisine that I cooked side by side with my great teacher," is how Schelling describes the philosophy behind her cooking.
The essence here lies in the comforting aromas, in the deeply illuminated flavours and the finest raw materials. Then a tranche of saddle of lamb with chorizo, beans and ratatouille is enough to put Werneckhof straight into your gourmet heart.
Werneckhof SIGI SCHELLING
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