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This Is How the Mediterranean grills: France

Combined with the diversity of the country's wines, France thus impressively maintains its top culinary position when it comes to barbecuing.

The fact that France, with its culinary self-image, also sets higher standards for the result of barbecuing than other countries is no surprise. The French show that "»le barbecue« does not have to be banal at all but uses the whole range of cuisine. Take the example of Bordelais-style oysters. They lie briefly on the hot grill until they open. Then the mussel meat is swapped for triggered coarse sausage meat seasoned with rosemary and pepper, which cooks in the oyster shell over the grill. When ready, the mussel is placed on top of the finished beef and served with shallot cubes braised in salt butter or shallot-flavoured red wine vinegar.

Light and equally welcome are oysters heated briefly over the grill.
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Light and equally welcome are oysters heated briefly over the grill.

The French prefer beef to pork

Apart from the intrepid combination of sausage meat with oysters, what is particularly impressive is the fact that it is a matter of course to bring the latter to a barbecue; no one has to fear being considered a snob because of it. It may play a role that in many parts of France, sea delicacies cost only a fraction of what they cost in this country. Nevertheless, it can be a little more expensive if it tastes good. Three-finger-thick steaks from the Côte de Bœuf are welcome, and their juicy fat rim is a guarantee of taste and not a reminder of calories.

What counts is the pleasure of good food in all its forms. Fish and seafood are indispensable, especially near the sea. In addition to the aforementioned oysters, all kinds of mussels, king crabs and langoustines are served with subtle, homemade sauces or marinades. Whole fish, from gilthead to sardines, are grilled - or on the plancha, which is widely used, similar to Spain.

As for meat, the French prefer beef to pork. Juicy steaks are popular, grilled rare or at most medium. Delicacies seen more often than in our country include:

Bone marrow: Bulky beef bones that are sawn open lengthwise and left on the grill for ten to twelve minutes until the marrow melts. Sprinkled with a bit of piment d'Espelette or chopped parsley, it's perfect on toasted baguette or toast - or you can spoon the bones out.

Mighty côte de boeuf is one of the most sought after ingredients on French barbecues - including its tasty rim of fat.
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Mighty côte de boeuf is one of the most sought after ingredients on French barbecues - including its tasty rim of fat.

No shortage of ideas

The country's sausage culture should not be forgotten. The export hit merguez, made from beef and lamb, usually tastes a bit spicier in France than here. What small Nuremberg sausages are in Germany, chipolatas are in France: small pork sausages that are, however, somewhat longer and usually seasoned with herbs. An international classic, black pudding ("boudin noir"), is also popular and sometimes comes directly on the grill with a slice of apple.

In case anyone misses the vegetables in this list: they rarely come from the embers but are usually prepared elaborately before being served as a side dish. Stuffed courgettes, crispy bread salads, tabouleh, Provençal tomatoes - there is no shortage of ideas.


Philipp Elsbrock
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