Whale watching will give you plenty of appetite, so where to head? Here is Falstaff's guide to the best places to eat and drink on South Africa's Whale Coast.
Winter is the peak season for whale watching in South Africa, as hundreds of Southern Right whales make their way north from Antarctica to calve and mate in the warm waters offshore of the Western Cape’s Overberg region. While the cliffs of Hermanus – and nearby De Kelders – offer some of the world’s finest land-based whale watching, the region also delivers a delicious taste of Cape cuisine. Little wonder Hermanus was inscribed as a Creative City of Gastronomy by UNESCO in 2019. Don’t miss these five fine tables.
A highlight of Hermanus is the 12-kilometre Cliff Path, and towards its western end you’ll find one of the finest waterfront settings the Cape has to offer. Set on the rocks around a tidal seawater swimming pool, the tables at Fick’s promise a front-row seat to the antics of passing cetaceans. The extensive menu is inspired by Spanish-style pinchos, and runs from flash-fried calamari to classic patatas bravas or spiced lamb meatballs in yoghurt spiked with mint and garlic. To drink? The wine list leans heavily towards the cellars of the nearby Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, renowned for its cool-climate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. There’s also an impressive cocktail list and a selection of regional craft beers.
There is no shortage of pavement cafés in and around the Old Harbour at Hermanus, but rather seek out the simple staircase just off the Cliff Path. Legend has it that Bientang’s Cave was named after the last known hunter-gatherer to have lived here, feasting on wild seafood at the turn of the 19th-century. Perhaps not much has changed, as tourists and locals flock to this waterfront restaurant for fresh line fish, and the signature seafood potjie, a traditional stew cooked in a cast-iron pot. The dining and service are bistro-casual, but the setting is simply spectacular, with seaside tables set just metres from the ocean.
The Marine Hotel has graced the cliffs of Hermanus since 1902 and remains the town’s most celebrated hotel, a ‘grand old lady' renowned for its elegant accommodation and refined service. The best whale watching is to be had over the elegant High Tea in The Sun Lounge, a bright and airy sea-facing space. With tables gazing out over Walker Bay, and a tower of savoury and sweet teatime treats served alongside a bespoke selection of hand-selected teas, it’s a welcome respite from the busy Cliff Path below. Even better, book one of the sea-facing Premier Suites and spend the night.
Rated as a global ‘Blue Flag’ beach, Grotto Beach is hugely popular with families and walkers alike, and in whale season there are fine views out over Walker Bay. Just a few steps from the ocean, Dutchies is a family-owned beach café where sandy feet are all but expected. Terrace tables are laid out under a gnarled Milkwood tree, with the best seats offering sea views. The menu is extensive, with something for every palate and pocket, running from simple sandwiches and bitterballen, through to surprisingly good sushi. The wine list punches above its weight, with a selection of local boutique cellars.
With his deft take on modern European cuisine, chef Alex Windebank enjoyed a cult following when his restaurant Farro was located in Johannesburg. After pandemic lockdowns forced him to close his doors, he found a new home on Gabriëlskloof wine estate, where cellar master Peter-Allan Finlayson shines with his terroir-driven portfolio of wines.
On the menu, expect plenty of Farro favourites, from the starter plate of duck liver parfait and quince jelly to Windebank’s magic touch with truffle risotto. The menu also boasts an impressive grill section that sees both seafood and prime cuts given the Farro touch with a lick of flame. Just an hour’s drive from Cape Town, and conveniently en route to Hermanus, Farro is a worthwhile stop on your Overberg adventure.
