Tel Aviv: a great way to find sunshine

Tel Aviv: a great way to find sunshine

Tel Aviv: 7 restaurants in 7 days

The busy metropole is a modern culinary paradise – Falstaff took the trouble to try out seven restaurants in seven days.

Tel Aviv is a perfect destination throughout the year – whether you want to discover the magical and vibrant atmosphere of the old town of Jaffa, enjoy the beaches on the shores of the inviting and beguiling Mediterranean, or perhaps venturing further afield to the unique and mesmerising city of Jerusalem.

With direct connections from Vienna and a very manageable flight time of just under four hours, it is a great way to find some sunshine at a time of the year when the weather at home is far from assured.

The busy metropole is, however, also a modern culinary paradise and our trip was focused on savouring as much as we could in a week.

Soho House

One of the newest additions to the SH family, Soho House Tel Aviv Jaffa perfectly blends the cosy comfort and familiarity expected from the brand with exotic local touches which remind us that we are indeed in another country.

This exciting and eclectic combination also flows through to the menu which offers classics such as Dirty Burgers and Brick Chicken whilst also introducing delights like the Cauliflower Tabbouleh and Falafel Pita. Don’t forget the delicious TFC (tender fried chicken) treats. With all that Tel Aviv has to offer, it is a little disappointing that the menu does not include more local dishes.

Our visit coincided with Valentine’s Day and we instantly fell in love with the strawberry souffle which should indeed become a regular on the menu.

This restaurant is housed in the private members’ club, so it is important that the party includes a member in order to enjoy this exciting new location.

Old city Jaffa, Tel Aviv, Israel
Shutterstock
Old city Jaffa, Tel Aviv, Israel

Mashya

Housed in the Mendeli Street Hotel, Mashya is one of the four Baraka House locations which offer gourmet cuisine and nightlife. Architecturally sleek with great views into the kitchen, Mashya exudes the smell and flavour of its namesake mace (mashya in Hebrew) and the many other spices which imbue the dishes.

Don’t waste time choosing which starters, just go straight for a beautifully presented selection which includes the divine Brioche, Cheddar and local Black Caviar. The Gruyere Tortellini with Sheep-Cheese Butter and Kombu Oil is a dream and from the wide choice of steaks the Onglet with Kimchi, Miso sauce and Puree is an exquisite mix of exotic flavours.

George and John

At number six on the listing of the World’s 50 Best restaurants in the Middle East and North Africa (MENA) region, – the best ranked in Israel – George and John is a must but, unsurprisingly, you do need to book well in advance. Tucked in the atrium of the 19th century Drisco hotel, there is a relaxed almost outdoor feel to the light and airy dining room.

It is hard to resist the eponymous George and John Salad, and the George and John Crab Pasta: the former a crunchy herby and fruity dish bathed in a tasty lime, honey and black pepper vinaigrette, while the latter is a symphony of flavours with sweetcorn cream, brioche & sage crumbs, brown butter and bottarga – a signature dish which Head Chef Tomer Tal can rightly be proud of.

Other highlights include the Beef Tartare and the Roasted Lamb Short Ribs slowly cooked which do indeed melt in the mouth.

The charming staff are ever attentive and ready with the best wine recommendations from a selection of Israel’s finest.

  • Drisco Hotel, Auerbach St 6, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel
  • gandj.co.il

Milgo & Milbar

Shooting Star Moti Titman’s restaurant is nestled on the swanky Bauhaus Rothschild Boulevard close to the Habima National Theatre of Israel. The cuisine is a fusion of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern with an emphasis on local ingredients.

Make sure you sit at the bar where you will certainly be well looked after by the young and enthusiastic team. Chef Moti was there in the background keeping a steady and efficient eye on everything, while also finding time to talk with guests.

After the amuse-bouche of Havana Croquettes and Corned Beef Bites followed by the Seafood Fettuccine and Hanger Steak with Broccolini, Black Cabbage, White Sweet Potato Cream, Brown Chicken Stock and Potato Gratin, there was just enough room for dessert which we were glad not to miss.

M&M is most deservedly ranked number 40 on a listing of the World’s 50 Best restaurants in the MENA region.

‘a’ by Yuval Ben Neriah

Tucked in a shopping centre, ‘a’ is a challenge to find for even the most seasoned taxi driver. But the hunt is certainly worthwhile as one enters Yuval Ben Neriah’s new culinary temple which rightly deserves its number 24 ranking on the MENA listings.

Opened in 2022, the restaurant is also a feast for the eye – very high concept design with striking lighting and a tantalising wall of different varieties of sake. Once again it is recommended to take a seat at the bar where you will be guided through the impressive menu by the highly professional and charming staff.

Allow you and your tastebuds to be pampered from the signature Pillows and Corn Balls through the Tuna Spaghetti – not quite what you would expect – and Beef Tartare to arrive at Japanese Curry and Vegetable Tempura. Again, do not leave out the dessert – how about the Pineapple & Cheesecake or Chocolate Crunch. The iconic Cheese, Bread & Wine is also not what it would seem and should not be missed.

Shila

All cities have a classic hangout favoured by locals and celebrities. In Tel Aviv this would seem to be the Shila restaurant which has been in the expert hands of chef Sharon Cohen for over ten years. The queues at the entrance are a further testimony to the restaurant’s popularity and success. Unfortunately, the extension to cater for even more guests does not have the same energy and charm as the main area, so you really need to get a table near the bar to enjoy the action.

Although they offer a mean Beef Tartare together with a selection of steaks, it is all about fish and seafood here, and what a choice! Whether it was the Crab Tartlets or the Gnocchi in White Butter Sauce with Crabmeat, Scallops and Prawns, the sea feels even closer than the few blocks to the beach.

Taizu

Also set on one of the busy streets in downtown Tel Aviv, Taizu is a little easier to find than Yuval Ben Neriah’s other and newest ‘a’ restaurant. Once again, the décor is a striking complement to what is not just a meal but an experience.

The menu is split across the elements of Water, Wood, Fire, Earth and Metal and it is best to get advice from the exceptionally friendly staff. They will listen to your needs before composing your menu – do opt for the wine pairings. If you can, make sure that your journey includes Steamed Buns, Nems (Earth) Shrimp Salad (Wood) Mung Bean Sheets Salad (Water) Masaman (Earth) or Butter Chicken (Metal). It may come as no surprise that the visually stunning desserts are the perfect way to round off the evening.

  • Derech Menachem Begin 23, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel
  • taizu.co.il
Mark Hirzberger-Taylor
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