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Classic & Traditional Cuisine

I’m not usually a gambling kind of girl, but I’m willing to bet that the first thing you’d expect when you open the wine list in a wine bar in the Langhe is probably not several pages of Champagnes, most of them from small(ish), cult(ish) producers. Nevertheless, Serralunga’s Centro Storico wine bar is a passion project, and Champagne is one of the things that makes the heart of its owner, Alessio Cighetti, beat a little faster. Cighetti’s vinous interests are not limited to Champagne alone. This tiny wine bar’s walls – as well as the pages of its list – are filled with bottles from local producers, wines from elsewhere in Italy and more than a decent selection of Burgundies and Rieslings and Rhone-style wines from elsewhere. Prices are pretty reasonable, too, given the quality of what’s on offer. You can enjoy a glass of Inama’s Soave Classico Carbonare for €5, or trade up to a helping of Gaja’s fragrant Barbaresco 2018 for €45 (a whole bottle will set you back €220 – not too far off the kind of sum you’d pay retail in London). The food offering is, perhaps, a tad more restrained than the selection of wines. A short chalkboard menu lists a handful of choices per course. Some antipasti – we had grilled red peppers doused in a punchy bagna cauda – a few primi (don’t miss the tajarin with local truffles when they’re in season), some hand-sliced charcuterie, and two or three meaty main courses and desserts. This isn’t fussy food – more a homage to the Italian ideal of good-quality ingredients served simply. Locals love it. Gambling girl or not, I bet you will too. Reviewed by Natasha Hughes MW

Via Roma 6, 12050 Serralunga D'Alba, Italy

Via Gaudenzio Ferrari 2H, 10124 Torino, Italy

Via Jacopo Durandi 13, 10144 Torino, Italy

Via Lorenzo Valerio 5/B, 10122 Torino, Italy

Via Conte Secondo Frola 4/B, 10121 Torino, Italy

Strada Comunale Val Salice 78, 10131 Torino, Italy

Via Modane 20, 10141 Torino, Italy

Via Borgo Dora 6, 10152 Torino, Italy

Via San Paolo 52/B, 10141 Torino, Italy

Strada Giaveno 29, 10090 Trana, Italy

Via Paolo Sacchi 8, 10128 Torino, Italy

Corso Inghilterra 3, 10138 Torino, Italy

Via Gian Francesco Bellezia 37, 10122 Torino, Italy

Via Evangelista Torricelli 59, 10129 Torino, Italy

Via Giuseppe Verdi 45A, 10124 Torino, Italy

Corso Filippo Turati 14, 10128 Torino, Italy

Piazzetta Giulia 1, 15057 Tortona, Italy

Via Bologna 20, 10152 Torino, Italy

Via Edmondo De Amicis 14, 15057 Tortona, Italy

Corso San Maurizio 61/D, 10124 Torino, Italy