Sunday Opening – restaurants in Piedmont
I’m not usually a gambling kind of girl, but I’m willing to bet that the first thing you’d expect when you open the wine list in a wine bar in the Langhe is probably not several pages of Champagnes, most of them from small(ish), cult(ish) producers. Nevertheless, Serralunga’s Centro Storico wine bar is a passion project, and Champagne is one of the things that makes the heart of its owner, Alessio Cighetti, beat a little faster. Cighetti’s vinous interests are not limited to Champagne alone. This tiny wine bar’s walls – as well as the pages of its list – are filled with bottles from local producers, wines from elsewhere in Italy and more than a decent selection of Burgundies and Rieslings and Rhone-style wines from elsewhere. Prices are pretty reasonable, too, given the quality of what’s on offer. You can enjoy a glass of Inama’s Soave Classico Carbonare for €5, or trade up to a helping of Gaja’s fragrant Barbaresco 2018 for €45 (a whole bottle will set you back €220 – not too far off the kind of sum you’d pay retail in London). The food offering is, perhaps, a tad more restrained than the selection of wines. A short chalkboard menu lists a handful of choices per course. Some antipasti – we had grilled red peppers doused in a punchy bagna cauda – a few primi (don’t miss the tajarin with local truffles when they’re in season), some hand-sliced charcuterie, and two or three meaty main courses and desserts. This isn’t fussy food – more a homage to the Italian ideal of good-quality ingredients served simply. Locals love it. Gambling girl or not, I bet you will too. Reviewed by Natasha Hughes MW