The fact that people are talking about the wines of the northwest regions of Spain, especially those from Bierzo, is thanks to one man - Raúl Perez. The ingenious winemaker and outdoorsman, who is often referred to as a rock star among Spain's winemakers due to his appearance, has given the north-west of Spain such great impetus that these regions, and especially grape varieties such as Godello and Mencia, are being discussed and these wines have suddenly become critics' favourites. After working for a winery in his native Bierzo, his great career began in 2003 with his own project, which he named "Ultreia" after a greeting from the pilgrims on the way to Santiago de Compostela. The search for very special terroirs, small parcels with very old vines and a distinctive microclimate always played the biggest role. And, of course, the grape varieties of his homeland, the white Godello and the red Mencia. And Raúl Perez has a great feel for such terroirs, coupled with an equally great respect for nature. He therefore cultivates his parcels organically, as he is less interested in producing "everybody's darling" wines than wines with heart and character, which above all reflect the soil and the cool and sometimes harsh climate of his home region in his wines. As acerbic and ultra-precise as he is in his vineyards, it seems to be just as chaotic in his cellar. Depending on the grape variety, plot and vintage, he uses pretty much anything that is suitable for fermentation, maturation and storage, from wooden barrels to clay pots and glass balloons. But what may seem so disorganised on the outside is actually well thought out and results in unique and original wines with style and deep expression. His Godellos and Mencias are the benchmark for the Bierzo region and, seemingly on the side, he also produces one of the very best Alvarinhos in the neighbouring region of Rias Baixas. The fact that he also finds the time to help other wineries in his home region get started by putting all his experience and expertise at their disposal is an additional honour. He has long been a winemaking legend.
