At Connection, Alan Bates is defying Copenhagen’s fine dining norms

Connection by Alan Bates doesn’t have a Michelin star, nor does it rank high on any culinary lists. A meal here is not an ‘immersive dining experience’ with 30 servings and theatrical flourishes. So why should this intimate 18-seater, tucked away in the charming Kartoffelrækkerne district of Copenhagen, still be considered among the city’s best restaurants? Because it offers something different: an ever-changing, nine-course menu that maximises the flavours of the best available ingredients, served without pretension in a homely, relaxed setting that leaves room for conversation and, indeed, connection.