Challenging the three Cs of Christmas, part 2: Chablis

As soon as Christmas seafood is mentioned, our Pavlovian reaction is to call for Chablis. The seductive saline charms of this classic white are hard to resist: like drinking a glass of white blossom shot with Kimmeridgian chalk. But the world of crisp, mineral-rich whites to match with seafood stretches well beyond this little patch of Burgundian soil. From the wild Atlantic coasts to the Italian Riviera, Austria’s land-locked vineyards to Greek island wines, there’s great value and extraordinary drinking to be had if you cast your net a little wider.