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There are many vineyards in southwest Germany's Kaiserstuhl, which rose as a volcano from the Rhine plain about 20 million years ago. The roads wind from winegrowing village to winegrowing village, up and down, and seemingly behind every second bend, mobile reception cuts out. In the middle of it all, pretty much exactly where magma used to rise up to the volcanic crater, lies the village of Oberbergen, home to the iconic Schwarzer Adler restaurant.
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