A lovely lactic note, a hint of cedar but also an exquisite sense of crushed oakleaf – wonderful savoury sense to the palate, wonderfully textural tannins, smooth, dense but also still pervaded by fruit. Floral edges, absolute concentration, real class. Drink Now until 2035. A.K.

A lovely hint of evolution has crept in: Wonderful poise, tautness, freshness – exquisitely fine tannins, still with a real tension and an exquisite smoothness. With air, there is a real sense of petrichor. The freshness is exquisite and bright, a kind of generous svelteness, absolute tone and definition. A real beauty. So concentrated. Drink now until 2040. A.K.

Plush plum is highlighted with tar and graphite, a gorgeous lift, a distinct note of cocoa powder. The palate has a serene smoothness. The tannins are incredibly detailed and fine, ripe but of elastic firmness. Simply lovely balance. A.K.

Glorious, ripe plum is wrapped in notions of leather and smoke, and exquisite, ethereal top note of mint. On the palate and almost playful suppleness, a very serious wine but with a twinkle in its eye, a knowing elegance, a mysterious smokiness. Such layers, such plushness, such poise. Drink now until 2040. Gorgeous. A.K.

A really lactic nose, something meaty, almost bloody, but all this is subsumed into ripe fruit. With air, there also is a hint of undergrowth. The palate is a little hot, but there is countering freshness. This is at this lovely cusp between youthfulness and incipient evolution. The tannins are bold but resolving. This is gutsy but also fresh. A.K.