Niederkofler’s “Atelier Moessmer”: Cuisine at High Altitude

With the Olympic Winter Games underway, the global spotlight is fixed on northern Italy. Yet long before the first medal ceremony, the region had already been attracting a different kind of devotee. Culinary pilgrims come not for spectacle but for substance, to experience the work of Norbert Niederkofler—a chef who has built one of Europe’s most singular restaurants by allowing the mountains to dictate everything.