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It was always going to be a risky venture to plant vines at 380m/1,247ft in on the slope of Mount Barker in Central Otago on New Zealand’s beautifully rugged South Island. Each spring, there is a nail-biting period when late frost is an ever-present threat and autumn is not much better. If things get tough, the helicopters are called in, mixing up freezing and slightly warmer layers of air to protect the precious young shoots from freezing.
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