The indigenous cuisine of Canada

When Inez Cook talks about her 24-hour braised beef, her eyes light up. The sauce - deep, smoky, umami - is so good, she says, "you could drink it out of a wine glass." The menu at her indigenous restaurant "Salmon n' Bannock" in Vancouver also includes salmon in all its variations: smoked, grilled, in tacos or in creamy soup - always wild-caught, never farmed. She also serves bannock, the indigenous bread, sometimes in a classic, sometimes in a modern interpretation. But anyone who thinks it's just about the food is mistaken: every ingredient, every bite also carries a story - of loss, uprooting and reclamation.