London for foodies: From World Cuisine to British Traditional

It is nearly 30 years since the London chef Fergus Henderson opened his restaurant "St. John", thereby kicking off a sea change in the culinary culture of his native country. On the face of it, what he was doing wasn't that revolutionary. "Nose to tail eating" – in other words, a commitment to using every bit of the animal – was how Henderson described his philosophy. It is a principle that other chefs in Europe take as unquestioned basic wisdom, but one which until then had largely bypassed British kitchens.