Beyond the Nouveau: exploring the subtle complexities of Beaujolais’ 10 crus

Every year on the third Thursday in November, at precisely 12.01 am, the French region of Beaujolais erupts with the celebrations of the first young wine of the season. The rest of the country, and much of the wine world, joins them in the frivolity of Beaujolais Nouveau Day. It’s so firmly ensconced in the vinous imagination that it’s easy to forget the serious wines made just a stone’s throw from the Nouveau heartlands. Ignore these wines at your peril: they can be exquisite and surprisingly age-worthy. Good news for those of us long ago priced out of Burgundy.