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Just look at the supermarket shelves groaning with Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, Rioja or Prosecco. It would be a brave restaurant wine list that dispensed with Chablis or Meursault. But these are all styles that trade on their familiarity, a comfort blanket that often comes with highly variable quality at the mass market end or, if you venture into fine wine territory, a hefty price tag.
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