Review of the day: Restaurant ESSE - Copenhagen, Denmark

Jesper Uhurp, 28.04.2026

With ESSE, American chef Matt Orlando has returned to Copenhagen. He previously operated the now-closed Amass and served as head chefat Noma.

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ESSE offers a single 12-course menu priced at DKK1,595. As at Amass, sustainability, optimal ingredient utilization, and a zero-waste philosophy define the kitchen. The menu includes fermented potato bread made from peelings – a signature from Amass – pumpkin hoisin crafted from pumpkin skins, noodles produced from fish bone flour, and taco shells also made from fish flour. ESSE does not focus on classic luxury ingredients such as lobster, scallops, or turbot. What stands out is the remarkable depth of flavor extracted from seemingly unpretentious ingredients.

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