Review of the week: Restaurant Grim – Copenhagen, Denmark

The name may suggest rough edges, yet the space feels warm and welcoming, as does the culinary approach: honest cooking built around ingredients from his parents’ small farm in Vendsyssel. Much of the produce arrives directly from Østergaard, and the vegetables, lamb, pork, and free-range chickens are often presented in their natural, imperfect form. This close connection to the land gives the kitchen a clear sense of identity and seasonality. It is an ingredient-driven approach shaped by respect rather than refinement for its own sake, with acidity and pickling recurring as subtle signatures that bring lift and structure. The skewers of meat from the farm are particularly memorable. Köfte with apple gel and mushroom powder delivers depth and brightness in equal measure, while lamb marinated in sesame and soy, finished with shaved truffle and elderflower capers, balances rustic generosity with a gentle touch of finesse. The flavors are bold yet grounded, allowing the produce to remain at the forefront.