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La Maruzzella is written above the entrance door. At first glance the restaurant seems a little run-down, but it is an institution in this part of Puglia: abistro right by the sea, just above Gallipoli. Those who come here know why and want only one thing: sea urchin, raw or in a pasta. Ricci di mare, as the Italians call sea urchins, is what it's all about. Yes, clams and fish and a few antipasti are also on the menu, "but the most important thing for us are the ricci," says Francesco, one of the waiters. "That's why people come to us. I haven't met anyone yet who doesn't like it."
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