Vienna meets Paris at New York City’s Koloman restaurant

It was billed as salmon en croute but the vibrant plate in front of me was a far cry from the pale, pastry-dominant affair the dish often can be. Two sunset-hued pieces of fish, framed by layers of green scallop-parley mousseline and sandwiched between slices of tramezzino bread, lay on a burgundy pool of beetroot-beurre rouge sauce. Dainty piles of orange salmon roe popped the colours further and kept the eyes moving around the ceramic canvas. It might be one of the most exciting fish preparations I’ve ever eaten, and it’s a perfect example of why Koloman has become one of New York City’s hottest restaurants.