La Soupière | Hotel Schweizerhof Zürich

Above the rooftops of Bahnhofstrasse, in the elegant Beletage, Chef Martin Fencz and his team interpret classic French cuisine with an exciting Zurich twist. Fish, meat or vegetarian dishes - everything fresh, to the point and with discreet service.

"Would you like some red wine with your fish?" asks Helmut Stadlober. As if you could say "no" to this gentleman. How could you? Honestly, there are certainly better pairings than this 2021 Bordeaux cuvée from Château Clarke with sole. But what the heck. It's always fun. And the Austrian maitre d'hotel is not entirely wrong when he says: "The youthful freshness allows it to be paired with fish." Crystal chandeliers, blue upholstered chairs, ornate vases and a view of Zurich's main railway station - time has stood still on the second floor of the "Hotel Schweizerhof". Whether the modern touch is missing or whether it's fun precisely because nothing here is hip and cool or Instagram-ready is up to you to decide. Before the fish, Stadlober serves a tomato salad with burrata, spring onion and basil, before bringing the impressive tomatoes to the table, presenting them and explaining the varieties. The Zürcher Gewürztraminer from Landolt counteracts the acetic acid perfectly. Then the soufflé sole, old school, comme il faut. On special request with crisp Flaach asparagus, tomatoes, parsley and herb oil. "I like our hollandaise with it, even if it's not actually part of the dish," says the maitre'd mischievously. It fits. Dessert is also unavoidable. Gugelhopf, pannacotta, tiramisu, fruit, lemon curd or strawberry tartlets make too good a trap on the silver trolley. The "Soupière" is no gastronomic revelation, but a host who has been delighting guests for 20 years can turn a very solid dinner into a great experience.