Perhaps it's the turbot with the peas. Both components are grilled on Binchotan charcoal, a dashi nage with vin jaune sets off the glassy turbot incredibly well, finger limes give it a fresh kick. Yes, perhaps it is the best course of the evening.
In any case, it exemplifies the twin idea in the "Chedi" kitchen: French base, Japanese guise. After almost three years, the signature of Dominik Sato and Fabio Toffolon is recognizable throughout the menu. This also applies to Yoshiko Sato's dessert: grape and ginger sorbet, a grape and jasmine tea concoction, yuzu amazake pearls and an airy, silky tofu soufflé. The duo have tweaked even the smallest details - to great effect. For example: eight grams of the belly of the Balfego tuna and twelve grams of the back are placed under the radish slices at the start of the menu with ponzu and shiso vinaigrette. This prevents the tuna from being too oily. The guest is only told all of this if they ask; in fact, they should simply enjoy it. The latest weapon at "The Japanese": Luis Pedro De Almeida Cambra is finally a sommelier who has a say in the purchase of the wines. His selection of wine, home-brewed tea and sake matches the dishes just as well as the Japanese minimalist interior. Okay, perhaps the roasted Norway lobster with miso hollandaise, crustacean foam and kaffir lime zest - a signature dish from Sato and Toffolon - is the highlight of the evening. You have to order it with the menu. That's right, you have to.