Japanese - Sushi
Midori -Zushi Main Branch Umegaoka
The legend began here. Go mid-afternoon on a Saturday and be prepared to queue. Insist on sitting at the counter. Fresh, fabulous and different every time. sushinomidori.co.jp
Japanese - Tonkatsu
Simply the best. Accept no substitute. The coating on the pork is unique as is the precise technique of the chefs who create it in front of you. The fillet is highly recommended. No website.
Founded in 1923. Sit at the counter. In season, the meal might begin with the tiniest of crispy ayu or ‘sweet fish.’ Order omakase and close your eyes. Perfection. tunahachi.co.jp
Japanese - Izakaya
Uokatsu, Azabu Ju-Ban
Ask to sit downstairs. Always bustling with waitresses holding frosted glasses of chilled beer. Order the daily specials. The aji fry is sublime, as are the oysters – when they have any left.
Japanese - Yakitori
A venerable institution. It is all wonderful. But the liver is spectacular. Be sure to order the curry pilaf rice at the end. People travel hundreds of kilometres for this alone.
Japanese - In a class of its own
One of my top restaurants in the world. For more than 40 years, the charming and erudite Mr Odajima has been pairing western wines from around the globe by the glass with his fabulous seasonal fare. Be sure to reserve a seat at the counter and enjoy. odajima.info
French fine dining
Les Saisons, The Imperial Hotel
There are simply not enough superlatives to do justice to the cuisine of Thierry Voisin and his brigade of chefs. imperialhotel.co.jp
Le Petit Tonneau, Toranomon
The grande dame of Tokyo brasseries. Philippe Baton has been running things for more than 30 years. Ask for the daily specials. Note that the “very special” beef is really very special indeed. petitonneau.com
Dal Birbante Giacondo, Meguro
The most authentic Roman cuisine outside Rome. Seasonal, fresh and perfectly executed. Our favourite? Wagyu Trippa a la Romana. Ask for one of their selections of amari as an aperitif.
The Hobgoblin Roppongi
British pub. An institution that for some is like a second home. Guest ales on tap. Great food for nostalgics and simply the best fish and chips south of Watford, England. hobgoblin.jp
Bar Oak, Tokyo Station Hotel, Marunouchi
Reservations are a must. Ask for a Gimlet and either relax into a Chesterfield sofa or sit at the bar and admire the view. tokyostationhotel.jp/restaurants/oak
A hidden gem. Go during their happy hour, sit at the bar and enjoy fabulous cocktails and line your stomach with their great steak sandwich. wolfgangssteakhouse.jp
Yona Yona Beer Works, Ebisu
Similar to other countries Japan has undergone a microbrewery revolution. What better place to sample Japan’s favourite craft ale? Try a Yona Yona, the beer that started it all here by the pint. yonayonabeerworks.com
Bar Cask Strength, Roppongi
Worn out after a night in Roppongi? On the way home, call in here and relax. Go late and stay late to enjoy a fabulous selection of whiskies by the glass. The bar refers to itself as a “sanctuary.“ cask-s.com
Cafés, Tea Houses, Gelaterias
Sublime pizza and gelato made fresh every morning. The coffee is outstanding. They even offer a caffe corretto which has saved us many times on a Sunday. Opens at 11am. aregapizza.com
Traditional Japanese coffee shop
Café Paulista, Ginza
Shiseido Parlour, Ginza
True style. True elegance. Oddly, given the cakes and sweet delights, we most recommend the fried shrimp sandwiches. parlour.shiseido.co.jp
Mitsukoshi Main Store, Nihombashi
The B1F floor of Japan’s oldest department store has a food market of incredible diversity and a glorious selection of fresh seasonal produce which you can often sample before buying. Imagine 20-30 different kinds of tomatoes. The sheer number of varieties of strawberries or peaches is staggering. Then there is a vast range of Japanese and international food specialities. But beware, food shopping will never be the same again after you have been spoilt for choice like this. Simply a paradise. mistore.jp/store/nihombashi
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