In a hip and happening San Diego neighborhood lies Black Radish. As you enter the dining room, you are greeted by a custom art light fixture reminiscent of the roots of a mighty tree. The dark interior is tastefully highlighted by gold leaf art, exposed brick, and clever brass patches where holes had once been now adorn the original wood flooring. The overall vibe is classic French bistro meets Southern Californian.
Helmed by owner and chef, Itze Behar, the restaurant has been a welcome addition to North Park. Classically trained in French cuisine, Mexican by heritage, and a staunch Southern Californian, chef Behar creates dishes as diverse and storied as she is.
The start of the experience featured grilled shrimp with a Bordeaux and bone marrow sauce, baby lettuce, and fried kale. The dish was lightly dressed to allow the natural sweetness of the shrimp to shine. Chef Behar believes her job is to enhance what nature has given and not overly complicate or confuse flavours.
The rest of the dishes followed her ethos of allowing great ingredients to shine. From the diver scallops with Fresno chili accented by a lemon and sea salt foam to her locally caught striped bass with cauliflower and orange purée. Chef Itze spares no expense on the quality of her ingredients.
The highlight of the meal was Black Radish’s signature rack of lamb. Served on a bed of three-bean cassoulet and haricots verts, the lamb was tender and delicious.
The clever cocktails and focused wine list feature wines from France, California, and the Mediterranean.
Reviewed by Billy Nordmeier
