In Empress by Boon, San Francisco once again has a destination-worthy Chinese restaurant. The juxtaposition of old and new that lies at the very heart of the restaurant’s concept pays homage not only to the makeover of the original Empress of China banquet hall which stood overlooking Portsmouth Square for fifty years but to the era of Chinese cuisine once served at Cecilia Chang’s Mandarin restaurant. For more than forty years, Chang rewrote the narrative about Chinese cuisine and the closure of the Mandarin in 2006 left a gaping hole in San Francisco’s dining scene.
Enter Chef Ho Chee Boon who has travelled the world with the Hakkasan group, opening more than 15 restaurants for the chain, including the dimly lit, clubby San Francisco location which closed in 2020. Empress is Boon’s first solo project as a modern Cantonese restaurant focusing on Californian ingredients and currently offers a $68 tasting menu to introduce diners to his version of modern Cantonese dishes. Don’t expect to encounter strictly Chinese flavours. Boon is Malaysian and future menu plans include dishes inspired by snacks and fruit salads he grew up eating at street stalls and South Asian flavours.
Designed by Atelier LLYS, the sixth-floor space is washed in shades of blue and features three distinct atmospheres that showcase sweeping views of the San Francisco skyline. Original details that convey the soul of the old Empress including an antique wooden pergola and carved panels have been restored and retained.
Reviewed by Deborah Parker Wong in July 2021
