Long Weekend Leipzig: The cultural metropolis in the east
Centuries-old culture, charming natural oases and lively conviviality: welcome to Leipzig, the most inviting city in the east.
Friday
A visit to the market square reveals just how much history you can find in Leipzig's city center. On the trail of great composers and poets, traditions from coffee to East German cuisine.
Anyone who likes Berlin will love Leipzig. Those who don't like Berlin will find an honest East German alternative in Leipzig. For many, the Saxon metropolis with its more than 600,000 inhabitants is now considered the coolest city in the East. This is not only due to the diverse cultural offerings and a growing culinary and bar scene. It's really thanks to the people of Leipzig, who are open-minded and helpful and like to explore new things in their city themselves. Younger people are increasingly drawn here to study. Leipzig is always on the move.
You can reach the city center on foot in a short time from the main train station if you plan to arrive by train. Our visit begins on the impressive market square at Zum Coffe Baum, Germany's oldest coffee house, which has just been refurbished. All kinds of coffee specialties have been served here since 1711 and have been enjoyed by Liza Minnelli and Udo Jürgens.
Afterwards, it's worth taking a look at the nearby St. Thomas Church, one of the two central places of worship in Leipzig. Here, you look in amazement at several colorful windows with symbolic character. The heads of the two composers Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy and Johann Sebastian Bach, who died in Leipzig, adorn various window fronts. The church also houses Bach's tomb and a Bach organ built at the end of the 1990s.
By the time we leave the church, it's lunchtime. Just a few steps further on, we stop off at the famous Auerbachs Keller, a vaulted restaurant with more than 500 years of tradition. Certainly not an insider tip, but it serves reliable down-to-earth cuisine in the East German style , such as Saxon sauerbraten or Leipzig black beer meat.
Well fortified, we move on to the Mädler Passage above, which is home to small boutiques, charming cafés and bars as well as exquisite delicatessens. The Mädler Passage is probably the best-known passage of its kind in Leipzig. Nevertheless, there are still several of these enterprising courtyards to discover, which are reminiscent of Leipzig's trading and trade fair activities of past centuries.
In the afternoon, we decide to visit the Old Town Hall, where you can learn more about Leipzig's history. From there, we head to Salumeria Italiana, an industrial-chic Italian delicatessen, where we round off the day with antipasti and wine in a great backyard atmosphere.
Saturday
Stroll through Leipzig's trendy streets and hip cultural venues, relax in the park and in a small alleyway where the evening never ends.
Saturday morning starts with a walk along Karl-Liebknecht-Straße, affectionately known as KarLi by the people of Leipzig. The street, which stretches from the city center to the south, is a vibrant, trendy area with many cafés, bars and restaurants as well as cultural events. See and be seen - Café-Maître, which exudes French flair and offers an extensive breakfast menu ranging from croques and quiches to Eggs Benedict and galettes, is a particularly good place to do this.
If you want, you can spend the whole day on KarLi, where you can quickly strike up a conversation with the friendly Leipzig locals. However, we decide to go to Clara Zetkin Park, which is about a 20-minute walk away. Leipzig's largest green space is not just for recreation, but also for culture. Numerous artists and bands perform on the park stage throughout the summer - it's worth taking a look at the event calendar here.
The spirit of optimism is palpable in this city full of young families and students. Many of them live in the Connewitz district - Werk 2 is a cultural venue that is home to flea markets, junk shops and art, among other things.
In the evening, we are drawn back towards the city center. For dinner we visit the Planerts. The young team brings casual fine dining to the menu in a creative and natural way. For the main course this works wonderfully with the composition of eagle fish, risotto, asparagus and wild garlic butter. But what sounds so traditional here is deceptive: in Planerts, the break is part of the expected program.
We stay in the city center and stroll through the barefoot alley, where one bar follows the next. The narrow alleyway is bustling with activity. It's cramped, loud, lively and not a bit remote. At the end of the day, we decide to visit Vodkaria in the immediate vicinity. There are no less than 700 types of vodka from all over the world on the shelves here. The innkeeper's advice, "Home drinking is killing innkeepers", must be followed! Well then: Nastrovje!
Sunday
Relax and drift across the water, past historic architecture and in the evening into the highly decorated restaurant of a TV chef - a stylish way to end the day.
After the first two days with numerous new impressions, we want to take it a little easier on Sunday. We head to Kleine Leckerei for breakfast. The inviting location with its large shop windows is a cozy place to start the day. The team serves a lovingly designed buffet with home-made salads, New York rolls, banana bread and almost everything your breakfast heart desires.
At lunchtime, we want to explore Leipzig in a slightly different way - from the water. So we jet off to the city harbor, from where we take a boat to inspect the city's beautiful river landscape and its sights - such as the impressive architecture of the Buntgarnwerke, a former yarn factory from the late 19th century. The relaxed river tour through the Karl Heine Canal in Plagwitz takes us to one of the city's youngest and most up-and-coming districts.
There's also plenty to discover at Leipzig Zoo, which places particular emphasis on the breeding of endangered animals and has created a huge tropical adventure world in the form of Gondwanaland. With more than 17,000 plants and 3,000 animals, it's easy to get lost. A visit is worthwhile.
We enjoy our last dinner at Frieda and head back to the north of Leipzig. In 2024, the restaurant was awarded a Michelin Guide star by TV chef Lisa Angermann and Andreas Reinke. The changing menu is also available as a vegetarian option, the wine list is carefully compiled and extensive - this even applies to the wines by the glass. If you come to Frieda, you should bring time with you - a place for slow enjoyment and the perfect end to a lively weekend.
Tips & Addresses
Hotels
Victor's Residence (1)
Located in the immediate vicinity of the main train station, the hotel with its historic Art Nouveau façade immediately catches the eye. Inside, you'll feel at home in the tastefully furnished rooms. The lavish breakfast buffet is popular and leaves almost nothing to be desired, from sparkling aperitifs to creamy desserts.
Georgiring 13, 04103 Leipzig
T: +49 341 6866-0
victors.com
Steigenberger Icon Grandhotel Handelshof (2)
Leipzig branch of the popular lifestyle chain: five-star hotel very centrally located on the market square with 161 elegant rooms and 16 luxurious suites. For those who want to relax a little, there's a spacious wellness area with sauna, massages and fitness. Culinary delights are served in the in-house restaurant Brasserie Le Grand.
Salzgässchen 6, 04109 Leipzig
T: +49 341 350581-0
hrewards.com
City Leipzig (3)
If you want to combine living and culture, this is the perfect place. The four-star hotel, which is conveniently located between popular tourist attractions, is where artist Anna Tessenow has let her creativity run wild. She has produced around 200 works on canvas, painting showbiz stars such as Keanu Reeves and Sean Connery amidst bright colors. Young and old meet here to enjoy a balanced breakfast buffet or to philosophize about art.
Eutritzscher Straße 15, 04105 Leipzig
T: +49 341 303840
arthotelcityleipzig.com
Hotel Michaelis (4)
The hotel not only offers comfortable accommodation and an excellent gourmet restaurant with high-quality seasonal and regional cuisine. The team is also involved in numerous exciting locations in Leipzig and offers access to them for conferences, weddings or celebrations - for example the Alte Essig-Manufactur, the Herrenhaus Möckern or the Fliedertreiberei.
Paul-Gruner-Straße 44, 04107 Leipzig
T: +49 341 2678-0
michaelis-leipzig.de
Food & drink
Auerbach's cellar (1)
Goethe and Luther dined here: Auerbachs Keller is the second oldest restaurant in Leipzig. In the time-honored vaulted restaurant, the staff takes care of the physical well-being of the guests with East German home cooking.
Grimmaische Straße 2-4, 04109 Leipzig
T: +49 341 216100
auerbachs-keller-leipzig.de
Salumeria Italiana (2)
Salumeria Italiana, which is a mix of a small market hall and restaurant, offers a great backyard atmosphere. Here you can buy authentic Italian products or enjoy delicious pizza or antipasti on the spot.
Prellerstraße 54 a, 04155 Leipzig
T: +49 341 5644833
salumi.de
Café MaÎtre (3)
From bœuf stroganoff to croque, from tartes to onion soup: Café Maître is known for its excellent French cuisine. When the weather is warm, you can sit outside the restaurant and watch the people on the busy Karl-Liebknecht-Straße.
Karl-Liebknecht-Straße 62, 04275 Leipzig
T: +49 341 30328924
cafe-maitre.de
Planerts (4)
Double Marco behind the stove: chefs Marco Ehrt and Marko Schulz-Werner bring pure flavor to the plates with their natural approach, while host Sebastian Wirth recommends the right beverage accompaniment in service.
Ritterstraße 23, 04109 Leipzig
T: +49 341 99999975
planerts.com
Frieda (5)
Frieda En Vogue menu can sometimes change on a daily basis, but you can rely on the meat, fish and vegetable compositions at The Taste winner Lisa Angermann's restaurant all year round. With Frieda Naturell, you can also choose a vegetarian menu alternative
Menckestraße 48-50, 04155 Leipzig
T: +49 341 56108648
frieda-restaurant.com
Bars & Cafés
To the coffee tree (1)
The oldest coffee house in Europe in traditional premises offers everything that makes the heart of a Viennese beat faster. With its own roastery and adjoining coffee museum. Composer Robert Schumann met with his friends on the first floor.
Market 9, 04109 Leipzig
T: +49 341 70290700
coffebaum.de
Small treat (2)
Kleine Leckerei is an ideal place to enjoy brunch in a relaxed atmosphere. All kinds of homemade salads, creamy scrambled eggs, nut corners, banana bread or New York rolls: everyone is sure to find something to their taste on the lovingly arranged buffet table.
Schnorrstraße 38, 04229 Leipzig
T: +49 341 24887540
kleineleckerei.de
Vodkaria (3)
If you would like to try a vodka with peach and pepper or garlic, you should stop off at Vodkaria. The store is much more than just a bar with an exquisite selection of vodka: Here you can also get appropriate Eastern European dishes from bigos to pelmeni.
Gottschedstraße 15, 04109 Leipzig
T: +49 341 4428868
vodkaria.de