Sherry, which is native to Andalusia and has become famous under the name Jerez, is actually known to everyone. Hardly anyone knows, however, that in the immediate vicinity, under the name Montilla-Moriles, there is an provenance for unusual top wines, which are sometimes reminiscent of the alcohol-enhanced wines from Jerez, but which stand out due to their very own character and provenance focused style. These wines are largely unknown in our latitudes, but a trip to the high-altitude vineyards of Montilla-Moriles will be worthwhile, not least because Alvear, founded in 1729, the oldest bodega in Andalusia and one of the oldest bodegas in Spain, produces remarkable wines here. Firmly rooted in the tradition of the region, this flagship winery has remained a family business to this day. In contrast to its neighbour Jerez, where the focus of wine production is clearly on the Palomino Fino grape variety, Alvear relies on the very high-quality and still somewhat undervalued Pedro Ximenez grape variety. According to legend, this variety was imported from the Rhine Valley by a Spaniard during a stay in Belgium. Alvear has old stocks of this variety, some of which are among the highest in the region at 650 meters above sea level. Today, all parcels are cultivated sustainably without the use of chemical pesticides. The Pedro Ximenez wines are partly vinified dry and are perhaps unspectacular immediately after fermentation, but gain immense finesse, expression, complexity and depth through ageing in soleras and under flor yeast and then delight with an incomparable and unique character. As with sherry, the sweet wines are matured in a solera with or without flor yeast, whereby new barrels are never used so as not to conceal the aromatic texture of the grape variety. These wines are somewhat similar to the finos, amontillados or olorosos of neighbouring Jerez. A noble sweet Mocatel rounds off the range. Anyone who loves this style of wine should definitely give Alvear's wines a chance, as they are celebrated internationally and Robert Parker's Wine Advocate has already awarded them top marks.
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