White wine enjoyment from Bella Campania: the best wines
With Fiano, Greco and Falanghina, Campania has three great varieties in its vineyards. The volcanic soils give the wines different expressions.
Around Avellino, in the mountainous hinterland of Naples, are two of the most famous white wine varieties of the region: Fiano and Greco. Fiano shows pronounced fruity notes, reminiscent of oranges and lemons, plus some apple and peach. Due to its accentuated acidity it is often called the "Riesling of the South". Fiano ripens at the beginning of October. For about two weeks longer hang the grapes of Greco. Greco wines are somewhat more restrained in aroma, reminiscent of peach and herbs. Both varieties can age very well as wine. A specialist in such matured white wines is Roberto Di Meo. Mastroberardino also presents an exemplary interpretation of Greco with his Stiléma. San Salvatore 's Pian di Stio comes from a high altitude site and shows that high quality Fiano can also thrive around Paestum. Michele Alois from the Caserta area, on the other hand, is a specialist in Pallagrello, of which there is both a white and a red version. Exceedingly exciting is his Caiatì, a Pallagrello of format.
On the coast
It is bubbling under the thin crust of the earth in the Campi Flegrei near Naples. The Falanghina here is said to have been once brought by the Greeks. On the sandy soils the rootless vines yield mineral-salty wines that are wonderful to drink. Marisa Cuomo's Fiorduva, which thrives on steep slopes overlooking Amalfi, is considered one of the best white wines in southern Italy.
Furore Bianco Fiorduva Costa d'Amalfi DOC - 95 Falstaff points
Marisa Cuomo, Furore
Sparkling, inviting straw yellow, exceedingly lively. Inviting and complex nose with notes of lemon, apricot and some mango, plus some flint, a little basil in the background. Juicy and clear in the flow, there is also fine fruit, juicy, clear and crystalline; moves along like on rails, long lasting in the finish, salty.
Stiléma Greco di Tufo DOCG - 95 Falstaff points
Rich straw yellow with greenish reflections. Tropical fruit, lychee and grapefruit on the nose, iodine, flint and slightly herbal in the finish, very complex. On the palate filigree, very salty and fresh, drinkable, with good traction, long and tropical-fruity finish.
mastroberardino.com, 30 euros
Vigna Astroni Falanghina Campi Flegrei DOC - 94 Falstaff points
Cantine Astroni, Napoli
Rich, sparkling golden yellow with delicate green notes. Opens with appealing play on the nose of smoke and flint, then roasted hazelnuts, finally juicy ripe peach, complex. Also shows very good complexity on the palate, ripe yellow fruit, honeydew melon, plus subtle salty notes, very long finish, exciting.
cantineastroni.com, 24 Euro
Alessandra Fiano di Avellino Riserva DOCG - 94 Falstaff points
Di Meo, Salza Irpina
Brilliant light gold. On the nose first nuances of cheese rind, hazelnuts, then blood oranges, canned pineapple, in the echo fine notes of cold butter, very inviting. Complex and elegant on the palate, opens in many layers, clear, with delicate salty undertones, stony, seems very pure, long and expressive.
Pian di Stio Fiano Paestum IGP - 91 Falstaff points
San Salvatore, Giungano
Very pale straw yellow with a tendency to silver green. On the nose notes of mimosa, citrus, fresh white stone fruit, Mediterranean herbs and sea salt. Crisp and juicy on the palate, fresh, on fine citrus notes in the finish, drinks very well.
sansalvatore1988.it, 27 euros
Caiatì Pallagrello Bianco Terre del Volturno IGT - 91 Falstaff points
Cantine Alois, Pontelatone
Bright, delicate rose gold. Medium intensity nose, opens with slightly salty notes of capers and dill, ripe Alexander pear behind. Plump and round on the palate, shows exceedingly full-bodied, lots of pressure, juicy and long, discreet bitter note on the finish.
vinialois.it, 16 euros