No vegan't: Eleven Madison Park puts meat back on the menu

One of New York's finest addresses has announced a major change: The international flagship of vegan fine dining, three-star restaurant Eleven Madison Park, is departing from its no-animal products policy. Just four years after top Swiss chef Daniel Humm banned animal products from his kitchen in the interests of sustainability, he has announced a return to a mixed menu.

"Change is fundamental to our self-image and growth," he writes on Instagram. "As I approach my 20th anniversary, I've decided it's time for a change again. From October 14, we will be integrating our new culinary language into a menu that upholds freedom of choice.". A purely plant-based menu will remain available for those who want it – but meat, dairy and fish will be offered once again, including –as Humm emphasized – his duck glazed with lavender and honey.

"Everyone welcome at the table"

In his post, Humm did not go into detail about the reasons for the change of course, but argues for the inclusion of all diets: "Eating together is the essence of who we are. To truly champion plant-based cuisine, I need to create an environment where everyone feels welcome at the table." In an interview with the New York Times , he admits that economic considerations played a factor: "It's not so easy to encourage a large business community to visit a vegan restaurant. In addition, meat is simply part of the enjoyment of certain wines for vinophiles."

Pioneering work in Manhattan

Eleven Madison Park has held three stars since 2012 and topped the list of the 50 Best restaurants in the world back in 2017. During the pandemic, it was transformed into a soup kitchen and delivered meals to those in need with a food truck. In 2021, their switch to plant-based cuisine for sustainability made big waves around the world. Their eight- to nine-course menu currently costs $365 per head, excluding wine pairing. Prices are not expected to change after the switch to a mixed menu.