Tampere is the sauna capital of the world – and the hipster capital of Finland. But it's also a paradise for foodies. Falstaff's restaurant guide recommends 9 restaurants with over 80 points, but the city boasts many interesting and unique culinary experiences.
One of the most original eateries in Tampere is Kuuma ("hot" in English): It's both a classic restaurant and... a sauna. For Finns, sauna is a natural part of everyday life, and they don't find it strange at all if a good schvitz comes with a good meal. Located in the heart of the city, the restaurant will not go unnoticed. After your sauna stint, you can cool off in the lake water. The swimming pool floating on the lake is very popular in both summer and winter. If you're not in the mood, you can watch the other sauna-goers from the restaurant's indoor table or terrace.
To get the best idea of what Finns eat, visit Kauppahalli, or the Market Hall. The people of Tampere say it's a place where you can take a culinary trip around the world and discover myriad flavors. This is true. Of course, visitors to the city are more interested in local flavors. Not to worry: these are represented here, both past and present.
The favorite dish of the skilled workers coming from Russia in the textile factories of yesteryear was Peremech meat pie, a delicacy among Bashkirs and Volgar Tatars. The locals quickly adopted it and still love it. Other local delicacies include blood sausage – similar to the Scottish black pudding – and braised reindeer meat.
A favorite with locals and visitors alike is Nygren's Fish Shop, with its wide range of seafood, including local vendace and salmon. This is where the locals do their most important Christmas shopping. In the days leading up to Yule, the queue is so long that locals have got into the habit of holding their last meetings of the year while waiting in line.
Finns are particularly proud of their doughnuts. Arguably the best in Finland are served at the Observation Tower Café in Pyynikki. They're definitely worth trying. And while you're there, be sure to climb to the top: The tower offers a panoramic view of the surrounding lakes and forests – typical for Tampere, but no less gorgeous.
The Finnish restaurant scene has been very stable and predictable for many years, with little in the way of novelty. In the last two years, however, it has gone from one extreme to the other: New and surprising concepts are sprouting like mushrooms. Perhaps unsurprisingly, closures are on the rise too.
Tampere stands out in particular as a fertile breeding ground for new gastronomic concepts. Trendy bistros dominate the cityscape, rapidly replacing most classic restaurants. What distinguishes them? The former tend towards minimalist and sometimes brutal design, with dishes that follow the same aesthetic.
Often, such places offer a nostalgic vibe. Like Bistro Eloisa, with its huge mirror ball hanging from the ceiling and classic disco hits from the 1970s and '80s playing in the background. However, their food is anything but dated – their menu changes irregularly and frequently, and the wine list is one of the best in the city.
Anyone who craves good food is willing to go look for it. At least that's what the founders of Apaja think. Located in the courtyard of an unassuming apartment block, you could be forgiven for thinking the building is actually abandoned – if not for one for the one open door and the light shining through a small window. The ambience is reminiscent of an apartment from the late 20th century, and the ultra-modern food served in the restaurant is a deliberate contrast.
For those who prefer more conventional environs, Periscope offers guests a great panoramic view of Tampere's city centre. It's particularly spectacular from the roof terrace, which is open all year round. If you've already got a full stomach, it's still worth coming here for a cocktail.
Set in a former factory, Restaurant Tampella, on the other hand, impresses with its industrial chic.
Finally, you can buy a delicious souvenir to take home from the chocolate shop at Tallipiha. Their selection of local and international cocoa products is impressive, and its location in a former stable adds another dimension to the visitor's experience.
Tampere may not be the first destination on the mind of a gourmet traveler – but it is a city well worth exploring for its wealth of personality and memorable experiences.
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