The Accidental Ramen Star: How “Broth Boy” Redefined Gothenburg’s Dining Scene
Once a self-confessed picky eater, Martin Bäckius never intended to become a chef—let alone win Gothenburg’s Restaurant of the Year. But his pandemic-born passion for ramen has turned into one of Sweden’s most talked-about culinary success stories.
In 2020, Martin Bäckius stumbled—quite literally—into the world of ramen. What began as a secret obsession, shared only through an anonymous Instagram account called Broth Boy, quietly evolved into something far more substantial. Four years later, that side project would transform into Gothenburg’s Restaurant of the Year, earning him an unlikely place among Sweden’s most exciting new culinary voices.
Cooking had never been part of his plan. In fact, Bäckius admits he was once an infamously picky eater, until embarrassment finally pushed him to broaden his palate. But during the long months of lockdown, something shifted. “With all that time and nowhere to channel my creativity, I figured—why not make a broth that takes 48 hours and see where it goes?” he recalls with a grin.
“It was never meant to be a career,” he says. “But I’m incredibly grateful that people care about what I do.”
In 2023, while working at the O/O Brewery taproom in the bohemian district of Majorna, a colleague suggested he serve his ramen to guests. What was meant to be a quiet Sunday experiment turned into an unexpected sensation. “I stayed up until five in the morning making noodles,” he laughs. “When I arrived, there was already a line out the door. My family hadn’t even tried my food yet—I was terrified.”
From that day, everything changed. Over the next two years, Broth Boy became a local phenomenon, drawing crowds to one-off pop-ups across Gothenburg and beyond. The city’s growing appetite for ephemeral dining experiences only fueled his rise. Despite winning Gothenburg’s Best Restaurant at the 2024 Nöjesguiden Awards, Bäckius still hasn’t opened a permanent restaurant.
“Pop-ups create their own kind of magic,” he explains. “There’s always a sense of urgency—that feeling of not wanting to miss out. And maybe a little hipster credibility, too.”
That exclusivity has proven both rewarding and demanding. “It keeps me awake at night sometimes,” he admits. “I have this constant drive to please—like I always need to be more than I am.”
Part of his appeal lies in his accessible take on ramen. While Japanese purists might balk at the liberties he takes, his recipes strike a chord with Western palates. “I don’t lean into fish-heavy flavors,” he says. “I keep it simple and inclusive. I’ve never claimed to make authentic ramen—thank god.”
His broths have since appeared in collaborations with acclaimed restaurants such as VRÅ, Suggan Vinbar, and Husette, where he reframed ramen—originally a street food staple—within tasting menus. But recently, Bäckius has returned to his roots, serving steaming bowls alongside craft beer or natural wine.
“It’s about balance,” he says. “I love multi-course menus, but I also love the simplicity of just serving ramen. My food shouldn’t be reserved for people who can afford a fine-dining tasting experience.”
Today, Martin “Broth Boy” Bäckius is Gothenburg’s most talked-about non-chef chef—a creative force whose rise feels as spontaneous as the dish that started it all. In 2026, he’ll publish his first cookbook, and, if all goes as planned, finally open a restaurant of his own.