It’s not every day that the value of a wine cellar jumps from that of a mid-range car to that of a Rolls-Royce overnight. That’s exactly what happened in mid-May in Langenlebarn, when owner Johannes Praskac posted the new wine list for the restaurant “Das Wolf.” The 27-year-old junior manager of the Tulln-based clan—known for plants and garden design—handles not only marketing and the planning of exclusive private gardens but also the restaurant, which his father, Wolfgang, chose to buy in 2011 rather than let the family’s traditional pub fall into the hands of real estate developers. After a turbulent financial history, the Praskacs now run the restaurant themselves. A dual leadership in the kitchen was initially announced in May, but things have since taken a different turn. They found a chef with ties to the region in Mark Lukaseder. Previously, he was in charge of the gourmet cuisine at Toni Mörwald’s flagship restaurant in Feuersbrunn. At “Das Wolf,” they immediately decided to do away with the previous “set menu” requirement and switch to basic Austrian ingredients. The paprika-infused premium fish soup is poured over raw pikeperch cubes that have been warmed only under a heat lamp. A fresh, summery appetizer: tagliata of XO Beef with arugula and Parmesan in a balsamic vinaigrette. A must-try is one of Lukaseder’s signature dishes: wonderfully tender, highly aromatic beef tongue—again from XO Beef—served as a roll with arugula and horseradish mayonnaise in a pumpkin seed oil emulsion. Free-range chicken—a rarity from local farms—is served as breast and a crispy fried drumstick with “Mais3”—sweet corn cream, popped corn, and corn kernels. Unpretentious country-style cuisine made with the finest ingredients. But it’s the wine—see above—that truly amazes. For one thing, the wine list has always been exceptionally vintage-focused—especially for those winemakers for whom Praskac has designed gardens in the past. See Hirtzberger, Tement, Lackner-Tinnacher, Ott, and others. There’s a special connection to Schloss Gobelsburg—Johannes Praskac is in a relationship with the winery’s daughter, Anna Moosbrugger. And then came the moment when the collection of a wine-collector friend was stored in the brick cellar—once the village disco. Bordeaux fans are sure to be delighted by individual bottles ranging from Lafite to Lafleur. Burgundy connoisseurs might be even more thrilled—Perrot-Minot, Prieuré Roch, Tino Kuban—you name it. Plus all sorts of wines from Sine Qua Non; even the rare U.S. Chardonnay Aubert is represented. And no one has to drive—it’s just a thirty-second walk to the ÖBB train stop.
Route
