The chefs at Vienna's most beautiful restaurant have changed time and again. But the concept of serving classic brasserie cuisine with guest dishes, in the marble paradise of the old cashier's hall of the former Länderbank headquarters, has always remained true. Now the German Andy Piesche works here, whose career also includes names such as Jörg Müller on Sylt and Silvio Nickol in Vienna. However, the kind of elaborate cuisine found at such addresses is not in demand at "The Bank".
From the start, it is noticeable that the service team is more attentive than has been the case for a long time. At 22 euros, the most expensive starter is also the strangest: "Smoked eel & crispy sausage" consists of a very small strip of fish with pear gel, a dab of cream, a deep-fried pastry roll with black pudding and a large piece of brioche, the function of which remains inexplicable in this unconventional ensemble.
Much more pleasing: pâté en croûte with chicken, organic pork, foie gras and pistachios plus apple and celery salad or the beautifully arranged plate with a variety of turnips cooked on salt, accompanied by rye crumble and heaps of the French industrial goat's cheese "Chavroux" - rather unusual for such things to be declared on menus. The traditional pink saddle of lamb with quince, beans, bacon and excellent potato gratin or the much more exciting carp ballotine - fish with a herb sauce, lilac berry sauce and pickled tomatoes. The final dish: sour cream pancakes, rightly dubbed the "signature" dessert. So while the cuisine remains on a rock-solid course, anything is possible when it comes to wine - from Romanée-Conti downwards, everyone will find what they are looking for here.
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