Discovering pubs in beautiful rural settings offering fantastic food is one of my great pleasures. A 16th century Inn in Warehorne, opposite the stark beauty of St. Matthews church, with Romney Marsh sheep grazing outside, fits the Platonic ideal. A proper inglenook fireplace greets guests as they walk in, with plenty of cosy nooks and crannies to settle into with a pint of local cider or perhaps a glass of Kentish sparkling wine from Gusbourne or Simpsons – English sparklers are now de rigeur on all drinks’ menus, happily sat alongside Champagne. The food here has ratcheted up several notches since Marcin Szelka – also executive chef of owners The Rocksalt Group – recently took over the kitchen, delivering thrilling cooking that has me dashing back each time I see a new dish shared on Instagram. I’ve been wowed by plump cutlets from a rack of Kentish lamb, tricked out with some lamb fat confit car- rots, mint oil and pickled walnuts, a generous plateful with just the right amount of artistic flourish – hearty pub food. Pig cheeks with buttery turnip purée and fried turnip tops, wickedly decadent, soothingly comforting: a charmer. Another visit finds me sitting in front of the fire with a slab of monkfish on the bone, nestled amongst mussels, fennel and sea vegetables, a deeply flavoured bouillabaisse sauce speaking of long-simmered crustaceans and fish bones, worthy of being slurped or mopped up to the last drop. Five bedrooms upstairs offer the opportunity for the perfect scenario: a country walk, a few pints of local ale, a restorative pub dinner, a short stagger up creaky 16th century stairs, and a soak in a roll- top bath before bed – pub nirvana.
Reviewed by Zeren Wilson
