The first surprise comes right at the welcome: Stefan Heile-mann has hired a new host for Zurich's "Widder Restaurant". And what a host. Ansgar Fischer worked for a long time at the legendary three-star "Schwarzwaldstube" in Baiers-bronn, including several years together with Stefan Heilemann. Heilemann made a real stroke of luck with Fischer: There has perhaps never been a more nonchalant accompaniment to a menu. We were also impressed by the wine pairing from Connor Münster, who is also new to the "Widder Restaurant". Especially as he wasn't even there, but his team represented him more than worthily and conveyed his ideas perfectly. An absolute highlight: the Schoenenbourg Grand Cru from Trapet with Gambero Rosso di Mazara on lettuce, Thai salsa and kaffir lime. It couldn't be better, only different. Just like the Heilemann classic to set the mood beforehand: Bao Bun with French free-range duck, duck liver and crispy skin. Tasty white asparagus with morels, peas and Périgord truffle is followed by perfectly cooked red mullet with mussels from the Algarve, artichoke, rouille sauce and sherry vinegar escabèche. We often find meat courses superfluous. However, we would have liked a second helping of Heilemann's Swiss Wagyu beef with cauliflower, beef marrow and lovage. Then pâtissier André Siedl is on top form: Strawberries from Schlattgut Herrliberg with Felchlin Opus Blanc chocolate, wheat grass and hay milk. That too: next "ram" level!
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