An intoxicating trip through the most dazzling metropolises of the United Arab Emirates, from top restaurants and hotels to nightlife and camel racing.
In one respect, the race between Dubai and Abu Dhabi is clear-cut: gourmet mecca No. 1 is Dubai. Two restaurants were awarded two Michelin stars in the inaugural Michelin Guide to the Gulf metropolis in 2022 and nine received one star each. Il Ristorante - Niko Romito, for example, takes guests on a culinary journey to rural Italy, while fellow two-star restaurant STAY by Yannik Alléna offers classic French cuisine. In terms of gastronomy, Dubai is also a place for superlatives, home to the 828 metre-high Burj Khalifa – the tallest building in the world. It not only attracts visitors with its At The Top observation deck on the 148th floor but its At.Mosphere lounge on the 122nd floor offers fine dining in the world's highest restaurant. Two more Dubai superlatives at this point: Palm Jumeirah, the world's largest artificial island, whose creation required mammoth 10.5 million trucks of sand, and the Dubai Metro, which had the longest underground rail network in the world, at 74.6 kilometres, when it opened in 2009.
Abu Dhabi cannot yet boast any Michelin stars (the first Guide will debut in November), but it does have some great international restaurants from Mediterranean and Peruvian to Moroccan. The outpost of the Michelin-starred Hakkasan with its Cantonese cuisine and Bord Eau are considered stars. And the capital of the Emirates is working hard on its reputation: the Worldchefs Congress & Expo took place there in June. The influential culinary body has existed since 1928 and the expo has been held in 38 countries so far.
'Think Big' does not just apply to the gastronomic scene: the Emirates Palace Hotel stretches over a kilometre with more than 100 domes and over 1,000 crystal chandeliers. The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is the third largest mosque in the world, with more than 1,000 columns and 82 domes as well as the largest carpet in the world. It weighs 35 tonnes and was woven by 1,200 artisans.
When it comes to speed, Abu Dhabi is also in the lead. Every year in November, the stars of F1 meet for the Abu Dhabi Grand Prix at the Yas Marina Circuit – and fans all year round at Ferrari World Abu Dhabi, where the fastest rollercoaster in the world is set up. Dubai's camel races offer similarly impressive spectacle. The humped mammals reach a speed of 64 km/h and have been riden by robot jockeys since the early 2000s. You can ride the animals yourself in Rub al-Khali behind the Liwa Oasis, a desert also called the Empty Quarter. The sand dunes stretch from Abu Dhabi to Saudi Arabia, Yemen and Oman. Desert hikes, camel rides, falconers (they have been training here for over 2,000 years) and then Arab hospitality under the stars at the Qasr Al Sarab Resort included. Recommended: Dining by Design, Middle Eastern food in the desert.
While Abu Dhabi sends guests into the desert, Dubai lures visitors into the mountains. A day in the Hatta region shows the natural side of the Emirate: hiking, mountain biking or kayaking, it's worth it for the photos alone.
Shop 'til you drop in Dubai's palatial Mall of the Emirates, one of the world's largest shopping malls, which includes luxury boutiques and an indoor ski slope. More down-to-earth is the historic Al Fahidi district, where traders sell spices, aromatic oils and pashminas. Keep walking and you'll reach the waterfront, where you'll hop on an abra. These wooden boats have been chugging back and forth between the Al Fahidi Souk and Spice Souk for decades, ferrying commuters, traders and tourists. Not far away, in Zabeel Park, the Dubai Frame is not only a place to look into the future. Inside, there is a glass-floored pedestrian bridge 150 metres above the ground that gives visitors a thrill to look down as well as a 360-degree view of Dubai.
Don't miss Dubai Garden Glow, the world's largest glowing theme park. Ten million LEDs cast their light on flowers, coral reefs and exotic birds in gilded cages. Gold is everywhere, especially 1,790 square metres of the Burj Al Arab hotel's interiors covered in 24-carat gold leaf. In Abu Dhabi and Dubai, ATMs dispense gold. Bargain hunters should head to the Gold Centre in Madinat Zayed in Abu Dhabi, where dozens of shops offer cheaper prices. The Louvre Abu Dhabi is a highlight of the city and the first branch of the world-famous museum. The permanent collection has more than 600 works of art, plus 300 masterpieces by da Vinci, Monet, Van Gogh and Matisse, among others, on loan. Dine afterwards at the fine-dining temple Fouquet's, an offshoot star chef Pierre Gagnaire's restaurant empire.
But Dubai can do more than just dazzle. The Dubai Opera has been promoting cultural diversity since 2016. The shows range from music by Morcheeba and comedy by Al Murray to ballet. Before the performance, go to the nearby Armani Ristorante for starred Italian cuisine or to super chef Sean Connolly's brasserie on the top floor for seafood and steaks. After the opera, the world's largest floating nightclub beckons. Float is located on the deck of the QE2, the grande dame of ocean liners, permanently moored in Dubai. One last thing: Abu Dhabi was named the safest city in the world in 2020 by crowd-sourcing website Numbeo for the fourth year in a row. In 2020, Dubai also ranked in the top 10, coming in seventh. Whether this is due to luxury police vehicles, it's hard to say. If Abu Dhabi gets a Rolls Royce Phantom, Dubai will follow suit with a 254 km/h Bugatti Veyron. If Dubai's police drive a Lamborghini Aventador, Abu Dhabi's officers drive a Lykan Hypersport. Dubai or Abu Dhabi? In the end, it's a question of taste.
STAY by Yannick Alléno
Run by one of France's most famous chefs, Yannick Alléno. French haute cuisine with Middle Eastern accents. The chef is master of 16 restaurants worldwide, three of which have each been awarded three Michelin stars.
West Crescent, Palm Jumeirah, +971 4 440 1010
oneandonlyresorts.com
Hōseki
A small Michelin-star jewel, simple and straightforward. Nine seats at the counter, where sixth-generation sushi master Masahiro Sugiyama and his team create an omakase experience with fresh ingredients each day imported directly from Japan.
Bulgari Resort, Jumeirah 2, +971 4 777 5433
bulgarihotels.com
Indego By Vineet
Indego By Vineet is the life's work of Vineet Bhatia, first Indian chef to earn a Michelin star. The plush Dubai eatery serves the best Indian dishes in town. Try Tandoori with smoked mustard fish. Grosvenor House, Al Emreef St, +971 4 317 6000
indegobyvineet.com
Ossiano
The underwater restaurant in the Atlantis The Palm Dubai with its huge aquarium featuring sharks and rays not only delights with its impressive ambience, but the creations of chef Gregoire Berger are also officially in the Michelin star league.
Crescent Rd - The Palm Jumeirah, +971 4 426 2626
atlantis.com
Trésind Studio
This Indian restaurant has now received a Michelin star thanks to chef Himanshu Saini's imaginative cuisine. What's more: the guest is God. According to this Indian proverb, Trésind Studio welcomes its guests with devoted and friendly service.
R002, East Wing Rooftop, Nakheel Mall, +971 58 895 1272
tresindstudio.com
Burj Al Arab Jumeirah
Referred to as the only seven-star hotel in the world for its unparalleled luxury. Features a fleet of Rolls-Royce Phantoms as well as duplex suites throughout the building. Poolside cabanas with big screen TVs and air conditioning.
Umm Suqeim 3, +971 4 301 7777
jumeirah.com
W Dubai – The Palm
Party palace with neon pink glow sticks and a gigantic pool deck. Add to this the Torno Subito restaurant on the beach by top Italian chef Massimo Bottura and you have a top-notch way to celebrate and enjoy your time at the hotel.
West Crescent Palm – Jumeirah, +971 4 245 5555
marriott.com
Mandarin Oriental Jumeira
Superlative property with Michelin standard cuisine created by Portugal's most renowned chef, José Avillez. Five stunning pools, a private beach, luxurious spa and Dubai's first gym with Outrace fitness equipment are all part of its premium offering.
Jumeirah Beach Rd - Jumeirah - Jumeirah 1, +971 4 777 2222
mandarinoriental.com
The Jetty Lounge
It doesn't get any better than this: soft sand underfoot, a selection of five premium Champagnes and music to chill out to as you enjoy an unparalleled view of Dubai's psychedelic sunsets.
King Salman Bin Abdulaziz Al Saud St, +971 4 399 9999
oneandonlyresorts.com
Float Dubai
The world's largest floating nightclub on the queen of ocean liners, Queen Elizabeth 2, which is permanently docked in Dubai. Light shows and cocktails, hot music and dancing at Dubai's coolest club.
Queen Elizabeth 2 - Port Rashid, +971 54 711 1171
floatdxb.com
The Rooftop at Folly
Expats drink ginger sour cocktails on the roof terrace above the Folly restaurant, run by the successors of British super chef Gordon Ramsay. Below, tourists cruise in wooden boats on the canals of the Souk Madinat.
27 Souk Madinat, +971 4 430 8535
folly.ae
Al Fahidi Historic Quarter and Dubai Museum
The museum opened in 1971, the year the United Arab Emirates was founded. Just down the street is the pretty courtyard café of the contemporary art-focused XVA Gallery Art Hotel & Café.
Al Fahidi Fort
visitdubai.com
Dubai Miracle Garden
100 million flowers in one day! It made the Guinness Book of World Records with the largest flower arrangement ever created. Visit the butterfly garden, a magical experience.
Street 3 - Al Barsha South, +971 4 422 8902
dubaimiraclegarden.com
Ain Dubai
The world's largest Ferris wheel on Bluewaters Island rises 250 metres into the sky. Each revolution takes 38 minutes, and its 48 air-conditioned gondolas offer a fantastic view. For an extra charge, you can book a cabin with sushi and Champagne catering.
Bluewaters Island, +971 4 428 0411
aindubai.com
Old Dubai
Densely populated neighbourhood along Dubai Creek, where people haggle in backyards and small restaurants serve delicious food. In the historic district, colourful wooden dhows bustle along and there is not a mega-mall in sight.
visitdubai.com
Camel racing
A Middle East spectacle: cloven-hoofed animals compete at the Al Marmoom Camel Racetrack, ridden by electronic jockeys.
Al Ain Road, Al Marmoom, +971 4 718 8888
dubaicrc.ae
Fouquet‘s
The brasserie at the Louvre Abu Dhabi promises a culinary journey with the signature of Michelin-starred chef Pierre Gagnaire. Menu with classic French dishes such as sole meunière. The beef tartare prepared at the table is truly a gourmet poem.
Saadiyat Cultural District 1, +971 2 205 4200
fouquetsabudhabi.com
Oak Room
Warm and inviting with a refined interior and down-to-earth atmosphere. Michelin-starred chef Tom Aikens has created an à la carte menu with only the very best produce and quality ingredients, from steaks to the quintessentially British Sunday roast. Accompanied by a selection of fine wines.
Al Bateen, +971 2 208 0000
oakroomabudhabi.com
Fishmarket
Take the freshest seafood, prepare it Thai style and serve it right on the beach. That is the recipe for a grand dining experience at the InterContinental Abu Dhabi. The award-winning restaurant also owes its enduring popularity to its friendly service.
King Abdullah Bin Abdulaziz Al Saud St +971 56 990 8317
abudhabi.intercontinental.com/fishmarket
Bord Eau
A top restaurant that has been awarded a Michelin star. First address for lovers of French cuisine. The ultimate indulgence: pan-fried venison fillet with Williams pear, Brussels sprouts and figs.
Shangri-La Hotel, Qaryat Al Beri, Khor Al Maqta, +971 2 509 8555
shangri-la.com
Market Kitchen
Under the aegis of French-American celebrity chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, who holds two Michelin stars and runs dozens of restaurants under his name from Bogota to New York. Try the Crispy Tuna Sashimi or Pizza with Black Truffle.
Le Royal Meridien, Khalifa Street, +971 800 101101
marketkitchenabudhabi.com
Al Maqam
The restaurant in the desert in the luxury complex Arabian Nights Villages with seating on the ground – accompanied by folklore performances – takes you on a culinary tour of local and Arabic dishes.
9F2W+PQ3 - Musaffah, +971 2 551 0590
arabiannightsvillage.com
Rosewood Abu Dhabi
The 34-storey waterfront hotel is considered the best five-star hotel on Al Maryah Island. Creative water features, glittering chandeliers and an exclusive underground wine cellar for guests who love stylish luxury.
Al Maryah Island, +971 2 813 5550
rosewood-abu-dhabi.com
Emirates Palace
Emirates Palace is bigger than Buckingham Palace, cost six billion dollars and was opened in 2006. More than 6,000 square metres are covered with 22-carat gold leaf and the room keys look like gold coins. Test out the gold vending machine.
West Corniche Rd., +971 2 690 9000
mandarinoriental.com
W Abu Dhabi Yas Island Arrow
The Arrow at the Yas Mariana circuit, where the Formula 1 races are held, is an architectural masterpiece that attracts thousands to stay on Yas Island every year.
Yas Island, +971 2 656 0000
marriott.com
Butcher & Still, Four Seasons Hotel
The bar offers a view of Al Maryah Island. Admire the antique Tanqueray No.10 Imperial Martini Shaker, one of only five in the world or taste a Two Gun Negroni, prepared at the table.
Global Market Street 2, +971 2 333 2444
fourseasons.com/abudhabi/dining/restaurants/butcher_and_still/
La Cava Weinbar, Rosewood Hotel
A spiral staircase leads to an underground wine bar with more than 1,500 wines with some of the most expensive bottles available in the United Arab Emirates. Check out its cosy cigar bar.
Address & contact: see Rosewood Abu Dhabi
Louvre Abu Dhabi
The Louvre Abu Dhabi is the first branch of Paris's Louvre. The permanent collection comprises more than 600 works of art in 23 galleries. That is complemented by 300 masterpieces on loan from major French institutions, including works by da Vinci, Monet, Van Gogh and Matisse.
Saadiyat - Abu Dhabi, +971 600 565566
louvreabudhabi.ae
Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque
Completed in 2008, the building combines Mamluk, Ottoman and Fatimid stylistic elements. Inside, there are inspiring mosaics, German-made crystal chandeliers, the largest of which weighs 12 tonnes. Check out the library with rare calligraphy and Arabic manuscripts.
Sheikh Rashid Bin Saeed St / 5th St., +971 2 419 1919
szgmc.ae
A Day in the Desert
A must-see for visitors to the UAE. Liwa Oasis is at the beginning of the Empty Quarter, a 650,000-square-mile desert stretching from the UAE to Saudi Arabia. Arabian Nights Village offers a range of trips, including a day safari to a desert camp. Activities such as quad biking are available at an extra cost.
Reservations: arabiannightsvillage.com
Scenic flights
Experience Abu Dhabi's unique skyline and topography from a private plane. The only seaplane tour operator in the Middle East, Sea-wings, offers scenic flights at 1,500 feet above architectural wonders and historical sites.
Reservations: visitabudhabi.ae/de/plan-your-trip/tours-and-tour-operators/seawings
