Its compact size, attractive cuisine and rich cultural offerings characterise the capital of the wealthy Grand Duchy.
Get to know Luxembourg cuisine, visit the Grand Ducal Palace and enjoy a record-breaking torte.
What is noticeable the minute you set foot on Luxembourg soil is the pristine public spaces that are almost impossible to find elsewhere. No chewing gum or cigarette butts litter the streets, the seats in the trams, which can be used free of charge, are clean, and there is hardly any graffiti to be seen. Luxembourg, with its 640,000 (country) and 130,000 (city) inhabitants, is in many ways a special case among the states of the European Union. The tiny country cannot cover its own labour needs and for years has been recruiting excellently educated migrants from all over the world who earn more than adequate salaries. Trilingualism is part of everyday life; French, German and English are understood practically everywhere.
When it comes to the food, it's said to be as refined as French cuisine but the size of German dishes! The proof is in Kaempff-Kohler, which is perfect for a post-arrival snack. It is located in the middle of the pedestrian zone of the upper town, where restaurants and cafés are lined up next to each other and are bursting with people, especially at lunchtime. Here, Feierstengszalot meets Gromperekichelcher, as it is called in Luxemburgish: a cold beef salad dressed with pickles lies on top of crispy warm potato cakes – a feel-good meal that goes well with a Luxembourg Riesling.
Meanwhile, we put our suitcases in the pretty boutique hotel Parc Beaux Arts, which is located diagonally opposite the National Museum of History and Art – in the upper part of town, every place is within a ten-minute walk. But we save the art for Sunday; instead for a sweet pick-me-up in the afternoon we treat ourselves to a piece of one of record-breakingly tall cakes in the Luxemberg House of Chocolate. At the same time, we look at the Grand Ducal Palace opposite, where the guards march ostentatiously up and down. When the red, white and blue flag is flying, the Grand Duke is present.
Prior to dinner at Café de Paris, we take a look at the Grund district, one of Luxembourg City's oldest neighbourhoods and Neumünster Abbey. The evening ends on a relaxed note with high-class drinks in Octans bar.
Today's programme includes a shopping trip, first-class patisserie and a visit to the best restaurant in the country.
Today we enjoy a smaller version of the hotel breakfast and then head for Rue Philippe II, where many fine shops from Gucci and Louis Vuitton to Rolex have their headquarters. It is also not far to Galeries Lafayette in the Grand Rue, not far from the bustling Place d'Armes. An alternative to the shopping tour is a stroll through Stater Park, a green oasis of almost 21 hectares.
Whatever the decision, after a few kilometres on foot we are due for refreshment. We stop at Café Oberweis, one of the city's traditional addresses, as the coat of arms of the purveyor to the court on the shop proves. Patisserie, chocolate, ice cream...Jeff Oberweis, who took over his parents' business with his brother Tom in the 1980s, is never satisfied and has been working on improved recipes for years. He is one of the few confectioners who also succeed in convincing with vegan creations. In a blind tasting, no one would suspect that butter and animal-based cream are missing from some tartlets. Just so there are no misunderstandings: his conventional creations are also divine, and on Saturdays there is also the French dessert classic Saint Honoré, which combines different pastries and creams.
For a light lunch, we stop at Brasserie Guillaume, where excellent seafood and fish dishes are on the menu. Thus equipped, we head downhill in the afternoon: yesterday we had a look at the Grund quarter, today we take a closer inspection. We first take the panoramic lift down to the green quarter of Pfaffenthal, where the city has its vegetable gardens and even vineyards. From there we walk along the little river Alzette through the pretty alleys to Grund. From the lower town, there is an impressive view of the Bock, which is considered the cradle of the town.
We freshen up briefly at the hotel, then the highlight of the day is on our agenda. In the evening, we have a table in the best restaurant in the country – Ma Langue Sourit, the only two-Michelin star restaurant in Luxembourg. You don't get far without a reservation, as it is often completely full even during the week. The restaurant is located about a quarter of an hour outside the city in a nicely modernised property overlooking a green garden. Chef Cyril Molard, a Frenchman, does not over promise and puts a smile on the face of connoisseurs. His market-fresh, balanced cuisine does not leave guests with a feeling of leaden heaviness even after eight courses; highlights such as Norway lobster with popped sesame seeds and pineapple tarte tatin with burrata foam are proof of his expertise.
Before our departure, we drive to the European Quarter, take a tour of the Museum of Modern Art and taste our way through a top vegetarian menu.
On our departure day we leave the old town and take the tram from the busy Hamilius start point over the Red Bridge to the Kirchberg district. Until the 1960s there were only fields here, then a completely new district was created, which is particularly pertinent for business people. Several European Union institutions have their headquarters here, including the European Court of Justice, the European Court of Auditors and the EU's translation service. At weekends, the European Quarter seems deserted, which is why festivals and concerts sometimes take place here, so the noise doesn't bother anyone. We stroll past the Philharmonie, which is well worth seeing, to the Museum of Contemporary Art, abbreviated to "Mudam", but popularly known as the "Pei-Musée". The design by famous architect I.M. Pei was initially controversial because it incorporated one of Luxembourg's landmarks, Fort Thüngen. Today, the architecture is considered a success, and collections by Marina Abramovic, Wolfgang Tillmans and Bruce Nauman make it a top-class venue for art lovers.
Depending on time and budget, there are now two options: those who can should consider lunch at the starred veggie restaurant La Distillerie, which under Belgian chef René Mathieu has won several awards for its cuisine. Mathieu dispenses with all animal ingredients and convinces even die-hard carnivores with his complex creations.
It takes about 20 minutes by car to reach the Château de Bourglinster hotel in the village of the same name. If there is not much time left, you should stay in Kirchberg and enjoy a varied tapas lunch. The restaurant El Barrio serves authentic Spanish cuisine, from croquetas filled with Iberian Pata Negra ham to grilled octopus with garlic. Upgrades like a tomahawk steak from Wagyu beef are also available.
Our departure is fast approaching, and if it is time to add a souvenir to our luggage. Make a detour to the Namur pastry shop, which is in a never-ending competition with Oberweis. Coffee is also a popular souvenir, with Golden Bean Company in the old town offering a variety of roast blends.
Hotel Le Place d'Armes
One of the best properties in the city, which also hosts state guests. The hotel operates several good restaurants. Double rooms from approx. €290.
18 Pl. d'Armes, 1136 Luxembourg
+352 27 47 37
Mama Shelter
Relatively new, modern design hotel in Kirchberg district. Double rooms from approx. €149.
2 Rue du Fort Niedergruenewald
1616 Luxembourg
+352 20 80 44 00
Hotel Parc Beaux-Arts
Pretty boutique hotel not far from the Grand Ducal Palace. Double rooms from approx. €250.
1 Rue Sigefroi, 2536 Luxembourg
+352 26 86 761
Ma Langue Sourit
Luxembourg's best chef is a Frenchman: Cyril Molard stands for a produce-driven top cuisine, sourced from Luxembourg ingredients. The cheese selection is small, but of fantastic quality. Definitely make a reservation.
1 Rue de Remich, 5331 Oetrange, Luxembourg
+352 26 35 20 31
La Distillerie
Belgian René Mathieu has already won several prizes for his acclaimed plant-based cuisine. The only restaurant in Luxembourg with a Michelin green sustainability star. At Château de Bourglinster.
8 Rue du Château, 6162 Junglinster, Luxembourg
+352 78 78 78 1
Kaempff-Kohler
Delicatessen food and wine, the associated bistro offers French brasserie cuisine and Luxembourgish dishes. Tasting tip: Feierstengszalot on Gromperekichelcher.
10 Rue du Curé, 1368 Luxembourg
+352 474747 2
Ryôdô
A high-end Japanese restaurant that uses ingredients of exceptional quality, including Wagyu beef. Awarded one Michelin star for the first time this year.
27 Rue Raymond Poincaré, 2342 Luxembourg
+352 27 76 92 85
La Villa de Camille et Julien
Camille Tardif and Julien Lucas are the couple behind this newly starred restaurant. Both emphasise sustainable, local cuisine and wines.
5 Rue de Pulvermuhl, 2090 Luxembourg
+352 28 993 993
El Barrio
A Spanish restaurant in the Kirchberg district with a penchant for luxury. There is not only a varied tapas selection, but also good steaks, with gold leaf on request.
2 Rue Erasme, 1468 Luxembourg
+352 26 43 15 03
Oberweis
A patisserie institution. Brothers Jeff and Tom are the second generation to run the family business and purveyor to the court.
16, Grand-Rue, 1660 Luxembourg
+352 47 07 03
Chocolate House of Luxembourg
Nathalie Bonn has earned an excellent reputation for all varieties of chocolate as well as multi-tiered cakes.
20, Rue Marché aux Herbes, 1728 Luxembourg
+352 26 26 20 06
Central city market
At this small market you can get fresh products from Luxembourg and France.
Place Émile Hamilius
2346 Luxembourg
Octans
An excellent bar offering top-notch cocktails, including a range of signature drinks.
15 Rue du Curé, 1368 Luxembourg
+352 26 20 10 33
Bar: Bar
Fresh fruit and herbs are part of the drinks, and there are small snacks to nibble on.
14 Rue de la Boucherie, 1247 Luxembourg
Palais Grand-Ducal
The palace of Grand Duke Henri is located in the middle of the upper town.
17 Rue du Marché-aux-Herbes, 1728 Luxembourg
The Museum of Contemporary Art
The architecture alone makes it worth visiting this modern art museum.
3 Park Dräi Eechelen, 1499 Luxembourg
+352 45 37 85 1
