The Hotel Lemongarden has blossomed over decades and today is simply perfect in its splendour. A hideaway on the island of Brač with its very own definition of luxury.
Enjoy a stroll or just sit and look: sometimes at rocking boats in the harbour, sometimes at the fragrant lemon trees and metres-high bougainvillea in magenta-red, then plunge into the vastness of the sea between gnarled olive trees and stately pines – not having to do anything, but being able to do everything, far from the hustle and bustle, serenely enjoying the day to find your own peace of mind.
Relaxed serenity like this typically cannot be bought, it is simply there and makes the heart happy – that is what you can expect at the Lemongarden, in the small fishing village of Sutivan on the Dalmatian island of Brač.
Many years ago, Helena Ramsbacher recognised the magic of the place and step by step awakened the centuries-old mansions from their slumber. Today, it is a colourful five-star paradise with 35 rooms and suites that differs from classic hotel establishments. The location alone: the Hotel Lemongarden is not a closed complex, but a village within a village. Accommodation, but also restaurant, spa, pool and bar spread out in the old town and forming a harmonious coexistence with the locals. This works because the needs and wishes of the people of Sutivan were taken into account during the development.
So, there is still the bench where grandparents can rest, or a separate bar at the harbour where pictures of the locals decorate the walls. Parties are celebrated together, such as the start of the season in April with an open-air concert by well-known Croatian tenors, and not forgetting the customary fireworks. And in the autumn, they go together to the olive harvest, with all this a far cry from the usual holiday locations and tourist crowds.
The southern lifestyle in the small fishing village is a composition of blue, white, yellow and green, with cheerful splashes of colour and unforgettable moments. As soon as you arrive, the stress is gone and the enjoyment arrives, with plenty of space and few people, it is a new definition of luxury.
Everywhere is blossoms and vibrant greens and, no wonder, after all, the garden is the heart of the property. A colourful Eldorado with palms, lemon trees, wild hydrangeas and many bougainvillea has been created around the 25-metre-long pool. When nature is reflected in the water, the place has something fairytale-like and calming, without forced sound or intrusiveness, and no-one has to come early to get a sunbed right by the water. There is something free for everyone, at all times, even a little further along the beach.
Even when the hotel is fully booked, there are never more than 70 guests on site, and they are spread out over the spacious grounds, meaning you always have the feeling of being able to enjoy this magical place alone. The service is unobtrusive and always on hand at the right time, and from the marina to the restaurant, a total of about 90 staff members take care of guests’ well-being. The hotel itself is run as ‘adult only’ but children are allowed from the age of 14. So, you can enjoy a glass of Champagne by the pool in peace and quiet, with couples also able to enjoy the romantic atmosphere to celebrate special occasions, even to ask their partners for their hand in marriage.
Every room and every suite is different, but they all show the courage to use colour, pick up motifs from their surroundings, and are decorated with impressive and original works of art. The lemon rooms are bright yellow, the coral rooms have red accents, while the marina suite plays with Mediterranean patterns such as sailor’s knots. The rooms are meant to be as colourful as life itself and to put you in a good mood, with beige banished but the charm of the 300-year-old mansions preserved.
Where possible, the old stone walls were left exposed, revealing a warm sandy tone, radiating cosiness and yet also something archaic, with the tradition of the old building methods retained.
The rooms and suites are housed in the three mansions ‘Ilic’, ‘Definis’ and ‘Vesna’, with sea, garden and pool views alternating. Mediterranean yellow and green set the tone and in Vesna, directly on the harbour promenade, coral patterns decorate walls and textiles, while in the somewhat hidden Definis, the designers were inspired by thyme, lavender and rosemary, combined with original Murano chandeliers. After all, the island was historically influenced by the Venetians, among others.
From early on, aristocrats came to the island for recreation because of the climate, beautifully laid out gardens, as well as the terraces. All the listed buildings of the hotel were renovated by Brač craftsmen, their knowledge key to keeping the special appearance of the stone walls. according to the traditional techniques. The interior style of French elegance, Italian chic and the down-to-earthness of the Dalmatians fits perfectly with the light-coloured stone.
The quietest time on the island is from April to June, and again in September and October. The mild temperatures make it easier to work out in the fitness room, and beauty and wellness treatments such as pedicures, manicures, facial cosmetics, or massages in the spa are also available. On hot days, the meditation cave around the rocks offers soothing coolness and darkness, and here, one also marvels at the extraordinary frescoes which aim to represent the female and male sides of the soul in the form of animals. Slightly swaying in swinging chairs made of Plexiglas, the figures such as lion, unicorn or gecko stimulate the imagination; the artistic exploration of the animals and nature reflects the connection with the island.
Sun salutations by the sea: in the middle of the pine forest, a yoga session is offered at 9am and again at 5pm. Those who wish can book a massage under the open sky and relax in a salty breeze. A private spacious beach is reserved for hotel guests and, after breakfast, your bag and book can land in the basket of a hotel bicycle, with a ten-minute ride along the flat path through the pine forest to the dreamlike bathing bay. Alternatively, you can be chauffeured by golf cart; in any case, hammocks invite you to linger under the shady trees.
Friends meet at the large stone table on the terrace of the beach club to eat and chat, complete with stunning views of the surrounding islands. At lunchtime, fresh scampi, squid or meat are grilled, with burgers filled with Wagyu beef from the region, and those who prefer something light enjoy vegetables and salad; the calamari fritti are a special highlight.
Dinner is served right by the sea, with Chef Ante Udovičić going shopping for ingredients at the market – you may know him because he is also a TV chef. In the Lemongarden he conjures up Mediterranean cuisine and Brač’s favourite dishes, his compositions are “festivals for the palate”. In Sutivan, fishermen still take their small boats out to sea in the morning to deliver freshly caught fish to the kitchen a few hours later, and the organic olive oil comes from their own olive groves.
Herbs and vegetables are grown in the garden so the sun-kissed tomatoes arrive at the table still warm and aromatic. The animal inhabitants of the Lemongarden also love the crisp harvest, with the two donkeys, Ivo and Miki, who are very affectionate, particularly keen to enjoy the carrots. The black and white tomcat Karlo has already been on Croatian television twice, and is easily recognisable by his pink Gucci collar; his slightly eccentric behaviour has long since made him the mascot of the house.
It is only a short flight from Vienna to Split, then by taxi to the hotel’s own boat, and in a good half hour directly to the harbour wall in front of the hotel. An even more comfortable way is to take a private plane operated by the airline Goldeck from Wiener Neustadt to Croatia every Thursday and Sunday morning, the flight time around one hour and 15 minutes. This saves long waiting times and you only have to be at the airport a quarter of an hour before departure.
For excursions around the island to secluded bays, the speed boats Agnes and Irene with 1200hp are available. The elegant wooden motorboat Paula with bathing platform and fresh water shower on board can also be booked with a skipper. The island world around Brač offers wonderful nature, and snorkelling in the crystal-clear water is of course great fun. There are no mega yachts or large sailing boats here, with everything still as it used to be: small, fine and simple. A holiday away from the masses in a hidden jewel without a long journey or visa.
The landlubbers can grab one of the three white Mini Cooper convertibles and set off on a road trip across the island, past glowing white stones and vines. Back in Sutivan, it’s off to the ‘Marina Club’ or the ‘Lounge Bar’ for a sundowner, or to the ‘Gelateria Rosa’ for something sweet, or a delicious ice cream. Fresh bread is baked every day in the Lemongarden – from crusty brown bread to hand-rolled grissini and tempting pastries. And in Gelateria Rosa, handmade croissants pile up next to lemon tarts and chocolate cakes, with coffee served in a vintage cup with an elegant rose pattern – for those with a sweet tooth, heaven on earth in the middle of a pink world full of small, loving details.
Among the European island hideaways, the Hotel Lemongarden is a real insider tip in its very own “league of southern lifestyle”. But there is still one catch: at some point the holiday is over and you have to leave, and nobody wants that day to arrive.
