History is essential here. In 1995, it was considered a sensation when the British design guru and restaurateur Sir Terence Conran (who died in 2020) took over the design of a Viennese hotel. The term "design hotel" was not yet overused, and "Das Triest" was the first of its kind here. The hotel was always a place of excellent cuisine, with the "Collio" restaurant being one of the best Italian restaurants in the city. The "Porto" bistro was added later. In 2022, "Das Triest" was unexpectedly closed. It is now open again under the Radisson Blu brand. Where the "Porto" used to be is now the "Bistrot Bertarelli 1894" - named after Luigi Vittorio Bertarelli, once co-founder of the Italian cycle tourism club. The penny-farthings on the menu are probably a reminder of this. There is also a restaurant of the same name in the Milan branch of the hotel chain. On the menu there: "Cotoletta alla milanese", unfortunately replaced by Wiener Schnitzel in Vienna. Here and there: risotto alla milanese, on the menu in Milan for 22 euros, in Vienna it costs "only" 16 euros, perhaps because you obviously still need to practise - the whole thing turns out solid, but rather mushy. Ceviche with tuna, salmon and scallops is almost dessert-like in its mango, lime and pomegranate fruitiness. And the "Filetto di manzo alla Rossini" comes "well done" without being asked. The mini wine list does without vintage numbers, but not without multiplications - five times the farm-gate price and more. On the way to the toilet, the sign for the "Collio" is still lit up - but according to the staff, it can only be booked for events. And you can see the rest of what was once the glamorous "Silver Bar". Sir Conran would probably be "not amused".