Between the Louvre, Île Saint-Louis and Jardin du Luxembourg lies the nucleus of France's capital. Stroll along both sides of the Seine and discover the cultural highlights.
Paris is always a feast. Especially in spring. When everything blossoms and the air is fragrant; give the Métro a break – now your nose is the best guide.
First, the path leads to the banks of the River Seine, where recently traffic roared. Thanks to Paris Mayor Anne Hidalgo the Rives de Seine now belongs exclusively to pedestrians and cyclists. This invites you to take a stroll, upstream to Île Saint-Louis and across the river to the Latin Quarter. A little tip: On the way to the Jardin du Luxembourg (ideal for a second coffee on the green at the romantic Medici fountain) next to the Champagne hotel Les Bulles de Paris is the small chocolate boutique of Christian Constant, chocolate pope of Paris and previously chef at the legendary Hotel Crillon.
Switzerland, Belgium? Pah! Parisians know their city is the Mecca for chocolate fans. We stroll on, past the Saint-Sulpice church, tourists in front of Pierre Hermé's, past pâtisseries and boutiques towards the Eiffel Tower. More precisely, to Stéphane Jego. His restaurant, L'Ami Jean is where Parisians like to have dinner, but it's also a great spot for lunch, so we stop. Everyone falls in love with his signature dessert, Riz au lait.
Well fortified and a little later we are standing in the Rue de Varenne. Next to the imposing Hôtel des Invalides and Napoleon's tomb lies a jewel, albeit a little hidden. The Musée Rodin is dedicated to the incomparable sculptor, his 'Thinker' and 'The Kiss' must be admired, as well as the idyllic sculpture garden. Afterwards, there is an extensive stroll through Saint-Germain with its sophisticated addresses and small designer stores.
Back on the banks of the Seine and past the Monnaie de Paris, where the magnificent gourmet temple of cooking legend Guy Savoy can be found, we finally stand in front of an iconic department store that shines with new splendor since last year; La Samaritaine. Here, high above Gucci, Vuitton, Chanel and Louboutin, one can reside in the Hotel Cheval Blanc, a luxurious stay with absolutely exquisite dining. From the restaurant Le Tout-Paris we let our eyes wander over the Seine, over the historic bridge Pont Neuf, and we enjoy contemporary French cuisine in a modern brasserie with the obligatory Pommes Pont-Neuf, as French fries were called in the 19th century.
The day belongs to the scent of roses, of fine perfumes, of the big wide world, and finally of pâtisserie and star cuisine.
Let's go on an aromatic hunt on foot to one of the secret hearts of the city – the Jardin du Palais Royal. This historic garden is located a few steps from the Louvre, yet is a quiet, rose-scented oasis amidst the hustle and bustle of city life. And that's not all, under the arcades of the Palais Royal beckons a high temple of fragrances: in the magical black interior of the boutique of perfume magician Serge Lutens, fragrances such as Ambre Sultan or Santal Majuscule transport your senses to Morocco, Persia and the spices of the Orient.
We stroll to Nishikidori, a small Japanese delicatessen with exceptional pepper varieties, and on to the fabulous spice blends of three-star chef Olivier Roellinger and his daughter Mathilde. It whets the appetite. Un café? That's what you'll find on Rue Saint Honoré. Café Verlet has been importing the finest Arabica beans since 1880, roasting them and serving them in the original, wood-panelled ambience. And not to be missed: éclairs, Saint Honorés or millefeuilles from the excellent pâtissier Carl Marletti.
Travellers and adventurers brought the scent of the big, wide world to Paris. One of them was Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, and an exhibition is currently dedicated to his famous book, Le Petit Prince, at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in nearby Rue de Rivoli – a small, fairy-tale journey through time. Afterwards, we stroll on in high spirits, briefly thinking of the nearby yam'Tcha by Adeline Grattard and of culinary global journeys full of refinement. We leave the Tuileries on the left, stow a few marrons confits in our pockets in Sébastien Gaudard's Pâtisserie des Tuileries and only stop again on the Place de la Concorde at Hotel de la Marine, which reopened last year.
A visit to the former Navy Ministry is worthwhile because of the golden state rooms of Napoleon, but above all to witness the historical living rooms and noble interiors. Inspired, we take an aperitif in the in-house bar Laperouse and walk back along the Rue de Rivoli. Finally, we have reserved a table at the highly acclaimed La Halle aux Grains, which opened a few months ago amid François Pinault's art collection on the Bourse de Commerce. The star chefs Michel and Sébastien Bras – father and son – compose the best products from their southern French homeland into the same elegant, clear-lined, nature-loving culinary art as in their star-awarded parent house in Laguiole.
On Sunday, Paris becomes contemplative. But many boutiques and especially the markets are open – a perfect day for a culinary-inspired Sunday stroll.
It's Sunday, and even the great metropolis shifts down a gear. We stroll along Pont Neuf and Rue Dauphine to Boulevard Saint-Germain. Of course, not without taking a Sunday look at the oldest church in the city, L'Église Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Whether it's a break next door at Deux Magots or Flore afterwards is a question of worldview. Instead of bohemians and existentialists, tourists sit in both cafés these days. Nevertheless, we sit at one of the small round tables, with toast, Œuf à la coque and a café crème, observing the passing strollers.
The inhabitants of the district themselves can be found a few alleys away, in the Marché Saint-Germain, where you can take a break with a full shopping bag in the Avant-Comptoir du Marché of Yves Camdeborde, the celebrity chef who developed Bistronomie – tapas in the southwest French style from duck hearts to deep-fried Parmesan balls and wines well-worth discovering, available here by the glass. For those who prefer to indulge a little more, the neighbouring La Table du Luxembourg in the middle of the garden of the same name offers Philippe Renard's Sunday buffet gourmand, awarded the Bocuse d'Or.
Those who have wisely booked a late return flight can still treat themselves to two cultural delicacies: the current exhibition on Romy Schneider at the Cinémathèque Française in the Bercy district on the occasion of the fortieth anniversary of the actress' death, with a look at her career, her roles and texts, her diary, interviews and film material. A must-see for cinema fans. At the Atelier des Lumières, a former foundry in the 11th arrondissement, 140 video projectors and sound system spread over 3,300 square metres and high walls puts famous painters in a breathtaking light. The current Kandinsky exhibition is joined by one on the great impressionists, Cézanne. The exhibition runs until February 2023.
