Within a large and ancient forest about an hour from Budapest (and pragmatically even closer to the airport) is Botaniq Castle in Tura. It was built by Baron Sigmund Schossberger in Neo-Renaissance style for his wife in 1883. The conversion to luxury hotel-restaurant was only completed two years ago. The new fine dining restaurant opened a mere eight months ago has Executive Chef Ádám Mészáros, Hungary’s only chef to have achieved two Michelin stars, taking guests on a poetic gastronomic journey ‘from the forest floor to the canopy’ exploring the different levels of the magnificent forest. It is a most luxuriously comfortable exploration, no wading through mud or thrashing tree branches.
The room is contemporary and opulent, featuring widely spaced tables, exceptional lighting and a gallery wall of around forty paintings including an exquisite landscape by Clarisse, the grand-daughter of the castle’s founder. Even the music has been specially commissioned by Liszt Ferenc Prize-winning Hungarian folk singer István Pál for a transformative, immersive experience.
The menu evolves like romantic poetry commencing with one of the most sublime starters I have ever tasted: a rhapsody of local trout with multiple ethereal fresh cucumber treatments, including an intriguing mineral rich ‘soup’ with hints of smokiness conjuring up a gurgling wooded brook plus a scattering of local Oscietra caviar, homemade sour cream and a cheeky little crunch of popped quinoa. The dish exquisitely expressed the purity of the forests.
Game is unsurprisingly key to the menu. A game broth of wondrous depth and earthy intensity cooked for a full forty hours features wild duck, partridge, pheasant, quail and is finished with a contrastingly zingy fresh gremolata. It is classic haute cuisine technique complemented by a modern approach that viscerally reflects the landscape. Venison is cooked to rare perfection with a skein of ash and hay served with root vegetables redolent of roast hazelnut and there is a nod to Hungarian tradition with plum chutney. Both pre-desserts and the pear finale dramatically constructed like a mushroom are captivating: exquisitely delicate and surprising.
Artful, bespoke tableware designed by ceramic artist Júlia Néma to enhance each dish adds to what is almost a theatrical experience. Service is meticulously orchestrated and follows the forest narrative of the menu in charming detail. What’s more, sommelier Tamás Langó offers an exceptional selection of rare Hungarian ‘Memory of our Mountains’ and international wine specialities ‘Adventure of Our Travels’. Surely Michelin will be equally enthralled by Clarisse, surely among the best gastronomic value in Europe. Degustation menu £123 wine pairing £35.
Reviewed by Sudi Pigott
