Charles Schumann's Tokyo

Omotenashi says Charles Schumann, when asked what the difference is between hospitality in Japan and Europe. Omotenashi is a difficult word to translate into German, which most likely stands for hearty hospitality. Omotenashi is an attitude that has been part of the tea ceremony in Japan for thousands of years and is the hallmark of unsurpassed service in Japan today.

Charles Schumann travels to Tokyo again and again, both professionally and privately. The metropolis of 14 million people inspires him. He often only realises this when he gets home: "When I come back, I realise how wonderful it was in Japan. Then I miss the country again." Charles Schumann has been learning Japanese for two and a half years, but, "I have a hard time with the language." Schumann says he would have to live in Japan to make greater progress. He doesn't have time for that yet.

Of course, the grand seigneur of the bar world visits his professional colleagues during his foray through Tokyo. Schumann goes where he knows the bartenders. Many bars are located in the upscale shopping district of Ginza, which becomes a Mecca for cocktail enthusiasts in the evening. There are over 350 bars in Ginza, hidden in cluttered office buildings. They often offer only a few seating options, yet they are classically elegant, dark and often smoking. The quality is exceptionally high, with most bars focusing on classic cocktails. Most of the time, you sit right at the counters. Not unlike the tea ceremony, direct contact between the master - in this case the bartender - and the guest is essential. Many bartenders have been at work for decades and, like Schumann, know no retirement age.

Questions for Charles Schumann

Mr. Schumann, where are you staying in Tokyo?

In Japan, I always have my trails. In Tokyo, it's the Grand Hyatt Roppongi.

Where do you go to eat in Tokyo?

There are of course the insane restaurants where you never get a seat. You really have to control that and plan in advance. The star restaurants in Tokyo only have about 10 to 15 seats. I don't go there though. I eat in Italian restaurants in Japan - they have better pizzas and better coffee than in Italy.

How come?

For a Japanese person who wants to learn Western cuisine, there are two places in particular: France for French cuisine and Italy for Italian. Japanese who return to Japan after living abroad push the production to a top level with the best products. This is not uncommon in Tokyo.

Why do you keep going back to Japan?

I am not that enthusiastic, I know many who have more enthusiasm for Japan. But I really like the attitude to life and the respect of the Japanese. I find Tokyo very inspiring. Even when I go to Kyoto, for example, I soon miss Tokyo again.
However, I have to say the only downer for the Japan traveler is the language. Unfortunately, the English level is still quite low. Therefore, you always have to get the addresses also in Japanese, many taxi drivers can only read Japanese addresses / can only read Japanese.

What do you think distinguishes hospitality in Japan and Europe?

The service is second to none. For example, there are nowhere as professional taxi drivers. I notice the difference especially when I am back home.
Respect is important in Japan. The Japanese find the right distance to the customer or guest at the bar. Here in Germany, the bartender is much too close to the guest.

How do you choose your hotels for a trip?

In Berlin, I go to the Rocco Forte Hotel de Rome. When I go to Paris, I go to some cheap hotel because hotel prices have become so outrageously high. When I go on a beach holiday, I choose a hotel that is very close to the beach because I don't want to drive.

THESE HOTELS ARE RECOMMENDED BY CHARLES SCHUMANN IN TOKYO:

Aman Tokyo

URBAN RESORT IN PRIME LOCATION

An aura of mystery and unexpectedness surrounds every Aman resort. The group's first city hotel is no exception: Aman Tokyo stretches discreetly across the top floors of a bank building right in the Otemachi financial district. It's not just the view that's impressive; the Kerry Hill Architects have more than succeeded with the modern, artistic combination of traditional washi paper, camphor wood and stone. 84 rooms and suites with unusually spacious layouts are part of the atmospheric overall concept. The hotel not only includes Tokyo's largest spa area, but also one of the city's Italian flagship restaurants, Arva. For those who prefer traditional dining, Hiroyuki Musashi is a sushi master of the highest calibre. It's hard to leave the Aman.

DZ from € 800 / night | aman.com

Andaz Tokyo Toranomon Hills

ELEGANT ARCHITECTURAL JEWEL

The designers Tony Chi & Associates from New York and SIMPLICITY from Tokyo skilfully combined Japanese forms and materials such as walnut and washi paper with modern elements. Located in the Toranomon Hills Tower between Tokyo Tower and Imperial Palace, the Andaz offers 164 spacious rooms and suites. A spa area including a gym and a large swimming pool round out the offerings. In addition to a breathtaking rooftop bar and a sushi restaurant, The Tavern - Grill & Lounge forms the heart of the hotel. Gourmets should not miss the house speciality, the delicious "snow-aged" beef from Japan. Another highlight is the Andaz Lounge: tea, coffee, local delicacies and sake or wine in the evening are included in the price and round off a successful stay at the Andaz Tokyo.

DZ from € 480 / night | hyatt.com

Hoshinoya Tokyo

EXPERIENCE JAPAN UP CLOSE

Wer dieses Hotel im Finanzdistrikt betritt, bemerkt beim obligatorischen Ausziehen der Schuhe: Das ist kein übliches Luxushotel – sondern eher ein Ryokan, ein traditionelles japanisches Gasthaus, das im modernen Tokyo angekommen ist. Widersprüche zwischen alt und neu gibt es aber keine, die Mischung aus hervorragender Gastfreundschaft, Omotenachi, modernem Design und natürlichen japanischen Materialien verzaubert von Anfang an. Jeder Stock verfügt über sechs Hotelzimmer und hat eine eigene Tee-Lounge – eine äußerst exklusive Erfahrung. Genauso wie die  Nippon-Cuisine im Erdgeschoß, für die Küchenchef Noriyuki Hamada regionale Zutaten mit Elementen der feinen französischen Küche kombiniert. Das Onsen befindet sich hier auf dem Dach – seine Wasserquelle 1.500 Meter unterhalb von Tokyo.

Double room from € 690 / night | hoshinoya.com

Park Hyatt Tokyo

LUXURY HOTEL WORTHY OF A FILM

This hotel overwhelms you at the latest when the lift door opens on the 41st floor and reveals a view over the scenic Peak Lounge. The design of the hotel by John Morford is a lesson in timeless elegance. The room key is adorned with an elegant silver ring, each book is thoughtfully chosen and each lamp adds to the atmospheric lighting scheme. Together with the outstanding service, the Park Hyatt Tokyo has become the flagship of the Hyatt Group. Hollywood stars and CEOs swim in the light-flooded pool, Tokyo's high society trains in the fitness club. Afterwards, people meet either in the modern Japanese restaurant Kozue or in the legendary New York Grill. There, on the 52nd floor, the twinkling lights of Tokyo merge with the starry sky.

Double room from € 475 / night | hyatt.com

Mandarin Oriental Tokyo

ASIAN PERFECTION

When Tokyo was still called Edo, Nihonbashi was the centre. The Mandarin Oriental is instrumental in the fact that this exciting district today combines the traditional and the ultra-modern. Since 2005, the hotel has promised "A Sense of Place" - Japanese nature, especially water and wood, served as a source of inspiration for the interior design. Intricate details run through the eight top floors of the Nihonbashi Mitsui Tower. The luxurious rooms and suites were freshly renovated in 2019 and offer breathtaking views over Tokyo. This wonderful view can also be enjoyed in the hotel's excellent spa and fitness area. The gastronomic variety is exceptional even for Tokyo, with no less than twelve restaurants and bars to choose from. Three of them have been awarded Michelin stars.

Double room from € 510 / night mandarinoriental.com

CHARLES SCHUMANN'S TIPS FOR TOKYO:

01 Star Bar, Ginza

The cocktail institution in Ginza. Bartender Hisahshi Kishi is a crowned master of classic cocktails. http://www.starbar.jp/star-bar-ginza/

02. trench bar, ebisu

Fin de Sàcle, ein bisschen Frankreich und viel Absinth – eine junge und westlich orientierte Vorzeigebar. http://small-axe.net/bar-trench/

03 Bar Benfiddich, Shinjuku

The bar concept "fram-to-bar" is influential in Japan. Western-oriented drinks. https://de-de.facebook.com/BarBenfiddich

04 Bar Orchard, Ginza

A fruit basket replaces the menu and inspires ingenious experimental drinks. https://www.facebook.com/barorchardginza/

05 Ginza 6, Ginza

New luxury department store of superlatives. As in all department stores, it is worth visiting the food department in the basement. https://ginza6.tokyo.e.abf.hp.transer.com/

UNSERE HIGHLIGHTS – 3 REDAKTIONSEMPFEHLUNGEN:

01. blue bottle coffee

With 13 beautiful branches, this American coffee house is not only a good place for coffee, but also for breakfast. https://bluebottlecoffee.com/cafes#tokyo

02 Pizza Studio Tamaki (PST), Higashi-Azabou

Tsubasa Tamaki has never been to Italy himself, but he is a contender for the best pizza in Tokyo. http://pst-tk2-ad.com/

03 Camelback Sandwich & Espresso, Tomigaya

In addition to fabulous sandwiches, this place has the creamiest espresso. https://camelback.tokyo/

Picture credits: Charles Schumann; Unsplash (Andre Benz, Derch, Banter Snaps); Aman Tokyo; Andaz Tokyo Toranomon Hills; Nacasa & Partner Inc.; Hoshinoya Tokyo; Park Hyatt Tokyo