A pioneer of Swedish cuisine and a legend in his own right, the celebrated chef passed away on 21 May, 2025.
The first time I met Crister Svantesson, he walked up to me with a warm smile and said, “You’re fantastic!” We had just been introduced at a hospitality industry gala, and though the encounter was brief, I’ve never forgotten it. At the time, I was a newly appointed editor-in-chief at Gourmet magazine in Sweden—confident in my journalistic credentials, yet still finding my footing in the world of fine dining. His words meant more to me than he probably ever knew. That was Crister in a nutshell: generous with praise, gracious in spirit, and always able to make those around him feel seen and valued.
Of course, I had heard of him long before that evening. He was already a towering figure in Swedish culinary circles—the chef who helped introduce nouvelle cuisine to Sweden and, together with Leif Mannerström, transformed Restaurang Johanna in Gothenburg into one of the country’s most influential restaurants. Crister had a remarkable presence, both in and out of the kitchen. And every time we met thereafter, he greeted me with the same warmth and made me feel just as welcome.
Six years ago, I moved to Skåne— not long after Crister opened Le Petit Bistrot in Ystad, together with his daughter Jennie Fredman Benson and her husband Jonas. I was thrilled. Finally, I could enjoy Crister’s cooking regularly. I still vividly remember my first visit. With that signature sparkle in his eye, he welcomed me and said, “I’ve saved the last goose liver for you.” I returned many times after that, drawn not only by the food but by the atmosphere he created. His tarte tatin was a personal favourite, as was the tenderloin with gorgonzola—an iconic dish from Restaurang Johanna.
In the early days of Le Petit Bistrot, Crister was still in the kitchen most mornings, preparing sauces from scratch and ensuring every detail met his standards. He was devoted to the craft—passionate about doing things properly, with good ingredients, traditional methods, and plenty of heart. He had no time for shortcuts, but his methods were shared not with arrogance, but with warmth and care. He loved teaching the next generation, passing on his knowledge with pride and encouragement.
Crister also had an impeccable sense of style. Outside the kitchen, he often dressed in a suit and hat, always elegant, always composed. And over the years, I came to realize: despite his stature, he never sought the spotlight. He preferred to stand quietly behind others, supporting and celebrating their successes. Crister Svantesson was not only an extraordinary chef, but a mentor, a trailblazer, and a true icon of Swedish gastronomy. From humble beginnings as an apprentice in Vårgårda and Alingsås, he trained in France—at legendary establishments such as La Tour d'Argent—before returning home to Sweden, where he would revolutionize the fine dining landscape.
When he opened Restaurang Johanna in 1974, it became the first in Sweden to embrace the principles of nouvelle cuisine, changing Swedish food culture forever. He would go on to lead several celebrated kitchens, compete in the Bocuse d’Or Europe, and influence generations of chefs with his vision, precision, and boundless enthusiasm. In recent years, his passion found a new home at Le Petit Bistrot, where he continued to do what he loved best—cook, mentor, and make guests feel at home.
The last time we met was on 31 March this year, when he received Falstaff Nordic's 2025 Lifetime Achievement Award. Just days earlier, he had suffered a bad fall—but true to form, he arrived immaculately dressed, arm in arm with Jennie, and stood tall to receive the honor. Afterwards he shared a message for young chefs that captured the essence of his philosophy:
“If you’re lucky enough to do what you love, make sure you do it as well as you can. Being a chef isn’t just a job—it’s a way of life. Don’t hesitate—go for it, and it can be an amazing journey.”
Crister Svantesson was a master of his craft, a generous spirit, and a man who found joy in supporting and uplifting those around him. A legend has left us. I feel deeply grateful to have known him.
Your legacy will live on in every kitchen you inspired.
