Restaurant of the week: "Krog Agrikultur"

Filip Fastén began his career at 13, earning the title of Swedish Chef of the Year at just 21 in 2014. Together with Joel Åhlin, he opened Agrikultur a year later, earning a Michelin star in 2018 before closing in 2022. However, the end would be short-lived: When Krog Agrikultur finally opened this fall in the Slussen redevelopment, Fastén managed to merge fine dining with the relaxed spirit of a wine bar and a touch of Mediterranean charm. You can drop in for a quick glass at the bar, spend an evening at the kitchen counter, or around a table sharing small plates. The cornflower blue interior is complemented by natural wood and textile accents along with sweeping views of Lake Mälaren, creating an atmosphere that feels airy and cozy. The menu retains some of Agrikultur’s most successful concepts, like produce from Lilla Labäck farm and a team including Agrikultur alumna Desiree Jaks.

Its predecessor’s air of luxury has been subtly toned down, yet seasonal produce, foraged herbs, and home-made fermentations are still combined into dishes rooted in French and Italian tradition, but distinctly Nordic in expression. The opening menu had pork terrine with pickled turnips, cannelloni filled with local brown crab and braised boar paired with elderberries. Don’t miss the desserts: The wild raspberries with vernal grass ice cream perfectly capture what Krog Agrikultur is all about–easily one of the best of the year. As another nod to the past, you’ll find Agrikultur’s classic snack of cucumber, smetana and honey, alongside a short but well-curated wine list with a small selection by the glass. The focus leans toward France, Burgundy and other classics, but with several mainly European wines making delightful appearances.