Restaurant of the week: "Esmes"

Helsinki’s latest hot opening, Esmes arrives with a pedigree: It’s the brainchild of the team behind 305, The Bull & The Firm, and Wellamo, all widely recognized as among the city‘s top dining spots. Instantly inviting, the dining room’s large windows open onto Iso Roobertinkatu, framing a small bar and a handful of tables. At its center stands a ten-meter-long, L-shaped oak counter that dominates the premises, naturally merging open kitchen and communal table. From here, guests can watch the chefs at work, plating and adding final touches.

Just like the interior, the menu is thoughtful and precise. The opening tomato dish shows beautiful restraint–simple, bursting with flavor, and flawless in its execution. Likewise, the grilled endives with burnt butter emulsion and trout roe strike a refined balance. The risotto uses Arborio rice cooked to perfection in an umami-rich stock, lifted by the clever crunch of crispy chicken skin. The schnitzel arrives delicately puffed, topped with wild garlic buds, apple, chanterelles, and an anchovy butter sauce. The monkfish is grilled until tender and flaky with a whisper of smokiness on a hibachi and is served with crayfish bisque and chili oil. Both could use a touch more lightness and acidity to reach even greater heights–but the oxidized and caramelized pear that closes the meal offers a delightfully fresh finish.

The wine list is still under development yet already offers over fifteen by-the-glass options–a welcome rarity in Helsinki. From the kitchen to the sommelier and the floor, service is witty, warm, and confident, delivered by a team that clearly enjoys what they do, contributing to Esmes well-deserved buzz as one of the city’s most promising new arrivals.