Restaurant of the week: "A.JU"

Eagerly awaited in Tallinn, A.JU set social media abuzz with sneak peeks and snippets of information well before opening, promising impressive décor and ambitious cuisine. Now that it’s finally here, it doesn’t disappoint. A self-described high-end casual dining restaurant, A.JU fits the ongoing trend in Estonia of avoiding the term “fine dining” to maintain a more approachable image among diners still suspicious of the term. While a fixed tasting menu is offered, à la carte dishes are far more prevalent, allowing diners to order more or less, tailoring their evening to their preferences and budget.

The tasting menu is well worth it, however: Attractively priced, it’s emblematic of the playful approach of head chef Joonas Koppel. For starters, he serves miniature brains made of raspberry and chocolate on a base resembling a video game controller, while dessert consists of a panna cotta shaped like kissing lips.

This quirkiness can be seen throughout ­the entire menu: Reindeer tartare is served on actual reindeer antlers, and each diner has a hovering plate floating in front of them that is used to serve finger food. You might suspect that such gimmicks would distract from the flavor, but this is not the case. Joonas Koppel is representing Estonia at the Bocuse d’Or this year, and his dishes are technically flawless and always delectable, with or without the special effects.

The restaurant bar offers drinks to match the food, with signature cocktails complementing one or more dishes on the menu rather than competing with them. It is well worth a visit in its own right, even if you’re not hungry.