A theater takes place on the upper floor. The Salon d'Or is full. Every chair at the bar is taken and the elegant "casino" is buzzing. We are seated and start with bread, whipped butter, champagne and Negroni. Bill Stooss, Stefanie Siegenthaler and Samuel Dober are in charge of the kitchen. The surprising start: white chocolate in the starter! This velouté is poured into a cauliflower mousse ring, topped with cauliflower shavings, grapefruit fillet, pickled jalapeño rings and pea shoots, accompanied by a cauliflower sorbetto on a bed of almond slivers. This course showcases all the pleasures of the palate: we taste bitter, sour, crunchy, nutty, buttery, cold, warm, salty, sweet and herbal. The main course is a succulently prepared saddle of pork with leek, deep-fried leek greens and a jus made from 13-year-old aceto. Then comes the vegetarian stunner: a pumpkin millefeuille with black garlic, candied ginger, cut-out napkin dumplings, glazed pumpkin rondelles, spicy pumpkin chutney, black salsify puree and a vanilla-ginger foam. This course is far more complex than the meat. Finally, there are works of art by patissier Samuel Dober: vanilla pannacotta, sablé breton, cinnamon blossom ganache and hibiscus cream are layered on an almond financier, accompanied by a blood orange and hibiscus sorbet. The second dessert is no less complex: the tree nut sablé is accompanied by caramel cream, white chocolate leaf and rosemary ganache, with Granny Smith apple balls and an apple and rosemary sorbet on top of the puff pastry hips.
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